Yesterday, I enjoyed an afternoon cruise around two natural Valletta harbors – Grand and Marsamxett. From the water, the vistas are mesmerizing, and experiencing them on a clear, sunny day was fantastic! Taking iPhone photos from the boat was a bit tricky, so in addition to my mostly uncaptioned shots, I’ve included professional media depictions illustrating harbor areas.
Our guide described Grand Harbor as a hand, comparing the rivers or “creeks” as its five fingers. The audio quickly covered stories and major historic events in detail, but more research is necessary to fully understand the history of the two iconic harbors. The five river “offshoots” are referred to in several different ways – rivers, inlets, creeks, and headlands. They include Rinella Creek, Kalkara Creek, Dockyard Creek, Marsa Creek, and French Creek. Click on the links for basic information.
Sliema Ferries
We began the cruise at Sliema Ferries Terminal – a busy “hipster” area of Valletta with restaurants, bars, cafes, and shops. It was a beautiful, warm day, and I decided to leave early, take the bus from Qormi (about a 45-minute trip), and stop for lunch in Sliema near the wharf. The trip was slightly complicated and involved changing buses and walking through an underground tunnel. It was an interesting experience.
Valletta Buses
At the end of the cruise on the way back to Qormi, I learned the hard way that riding buses in Valletta during peak commute hours is unwise :o(. The bus was extremely overpacked, with people literally pushing their way to the front of the line and through the narrow middle aisle of the bus. While waiting, I was shoved aside several times, and almost got pushed into the line of oncoming traffic. If you’re not used to a situation like that, it’s alarming.
Overcrowded buses are the perfect scenario for pickpockets, and I locked eyes with a few scary looking characters 😨. The number of passengers on board clearly exceeded the max-capacity figures posted inside the bus. It wasn’t a great experience. Lesson learned – taxis are the best transportation choice during Valletta rush hour!
Unless you have a chauffeur, a major adjustment when traveling abroad is navigating public transportation and learning how to get around – subways, buses, ferries, taxis, etc.. Taxis are usually a comfortable choice, but depending on the city, they can be dangerous and / or expensive. For most people, it’s an alien situation, when compared to the convenience of simply getting in your car and driving someplace. I find renting cars in foreign metropolitan areas stressful. You can spend time and money sitting in traffic gridlock and pay for rental car damage you didn’t cause. That said, I was a bit shocked by the overly aggressive Valletta passengers, and hopped off the bus, opting to walk the rest of the way.
Challenging travel experiences are a good lesson in patience and often emphasize how easy life is in a familiar “home” environment, where you’re somewhat in control, know your way around, and can get in your car and drive somewhere without thinking it out. Even if a little discomfort is involved, it’s still good to get out of your bubble and experience life from a different perspective.
Grand Harbour
Valletta Grand Harbour history dates back to ancient times. During the Middle Ages, the harbour was “used by Phoenicians, Greeks, and Romans“. Arabs and Normans transformed the harbor into a fortified, strategic maritime hub connecting North Africa and Sicily.
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“During the 17th and 18th centuries, Valletta Grand Harbour was a vital naval base for the Knights of St. John. In 1798, Napoleon Bonaparte’s French forces occupied Malta. In 1800, the Maltese, with help from the British, ousted the French and transformed the harbour into a modern naval base.”
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Marsamxett Harbour
Marsamxett Harbor is smaller and located on the north side of Valletta, next to the towns of Sliema, Gzira, and Ta’Xbiex. Striking 16th century Fort Saint Elmo lies at the tip of Marsamxett.
Gozo Next
My next outing is a full-day jeep tour of Gozo Island. Gozo is home to Ġgantija, a UNESCO Heritage Site and one of the oldest monuments in the world. The remains of two well-preserved megalithic temples dating back to the Neolithic period are on the island.
