Bosnia and Herzegovina

Sarajevo Farewell and Isa-begov Hamam

I spent my last day in Sarajevo walking around enjoying the beautiful city. In the late afternoon I had a hamam at Isa Beg Hamam Hotel in Bistrik. The process was different from Turkish hamams previously experienced. Isa Beg Hamam Process The hamam had a large Jacuzzi and steam room divided by a warm stone sitting…

Sarajevo Cable Car and War Bunker

This week I explored new areas of Sarajevo mostly on foot. Sarajevo’s famous cable car (Sarajevska Žičara) was on my list, but I didn’t do much research before the ride. It’s the fast way up Mt. Trebević to popular recreational areas and favorite picnic spots for locals escaping the busy city. Riding the cable car…

Barber of Seville and Lady of the Camellias Sarajevo

The Barber of Seville – Cancelled Sarajevo’s Opera and Philharmonic were set to perform The Barber of Seville on Tuesday night. Written by Italian composer Gioachino Rossini the popular comic opera first appeared in Sarajevo in 1948 with several repeat performances over the years. Co-produced with the Italian Embassy the opera is based on a…

Bosnian Coffee

By: suemtravels February 25, 2019August 9, 2019

Bosnia and HerzegovinaBosnian Coffee, Dočekuša, Džezva, Fildžani, Kahveni Takum, Rahat Lokum, Razgalica, Razgovoruša, Sikteruša, Turkish Delight, Šećerluk, Šutkuša1 Comment

Bosnian coffee is “part of Bosnian and Herzegovinian culture and national identity”. A big deal, it’s a tradition and social ritual. Preparing Bosnian coffee isn’t as easy as making espresso or using a French press, mocha pot, or drip machine. At first, I was clueless and asked my landlord if there was a French press…

Sarajevo Philharmonic Orchestra

By: suemtravels February 24, 2019September 8, 2019

Bosnia and Herzegovina, European CitiesAleksandar Lukinic Conductor, Association of Composers of Bosnia and Herzegovina, Balkan Chamber Orchestra, Belus Jungic Cello, Beograd Sinfonietta, Boris Papandopulo, Bostjan Lipovsek Horn, Dr. Joseph Goldberg Violin, Dragisa Savic, Ecole Normal de Musique Paris, Founding Assembly of the Sarajevo Philharmonic Orchestra Bogdan Milankovic President, Ivan Stajcer, Jakov Sternberg Viola, Josip Hladek, Josip Rozdjalovski Conductor, Julio Maric, Klemens Mensík Piano, Kosovo Philharmonic Orchestra, L. van Beethoven Egmont Overture, L. van Beethoven Symphony No. 5, Ljubljana Music Academy, Mirko Janjcic, Miroslav Homen, Mladen Pozajic, National Theatre Sarajevo, Ninoslav Verber, Oskar Danon, Oskar Danon Conductor, Quartet of Philharmonic Association, Radivoj Spasic, Salzburg Mozarteum, Samra Gulamović, Sarajevo Imperial Cinema, Sarajevo Philharmonic Orchestra, Serbia Nis Symphony Orchestra, Teodor Romanic, Tihomir Miric, Toshio Yanagisawa Conductor, Vladimir Maunagic, W. A. Mozart: Horn Concerto No. 3, W. A. Mozart: Rondo for Horn and Orchestra, Zubin Mehta ConductorLeave a Comment

Last Thursday I attended a Sarajevo Philharmonic Orchestra performance at the National Theatre – literally around the corner from my apartment. Philharmonic season is summer, so it was lucky finding this special winter performance. Samra Gulamović, a native of Sarajevo, is the orchestra’s principal conductor. Toshio Yanagisawa was guest conductor with Boštjan Lipovšek as horn…

Travnik and Jajce Central Bosnia-Herzegovina

By: suemtravels February 22, 2019September 10, 2019

Bosnia and Herzegovina, European CitiesBell Tower of St. Luke, Blue Water River, Bosnian Chronicle Ivo Andric, Bosnian Coffee, Bosnian Eyalet, Bosnian Trilogy Ivo Andric, Central Bosnia, Church of St. Mary or the Sultan Suleyman II Mosque, Commission for the Protection of National Monuments of Bosnia-Herzegovina, Elči Ibrahim-Pasha Madrassa, Ethnic Cleansing Travnik, Grand Vizier Prime Minister Ottoman Sultan, Independent Medieval Kingdom of Bosnia, Ivo Andric Yugoslav Novelist, Jajce, Jajce Catacombs, Jajce Second Conference of Anti-Fascist Council of National Liberation of Yugoslavia (AVNOJ), Jajce Waterfall, Jajce Watermills, Jeni Mosque, Konoba Plava Voda, Meet Bosnia, Ottoman Empire, Our Lady Vrilo, Plava Voda River, Pliva Lakes and Watermills, Pliva River, Sarajevo, Sulejmanija Mosque, The Bridge on the Drina Ivo Andric, The Woman from Sarajevo Ivo Andric, Travnik, Travnik cheese, Travnik Medieval Fortress, Vizier City, Vlašić Mountain, Vlašićki Cheese, Vrbas River, Šarena MosqueLeave a Comment

Wednesday was another warm, beautiful day in Sarajevo. We’ve had a run of “false spring” weather which was perfect for a tour of Travnik and Jajce in Central Bosnia-Herzegovina. The two towns are historically significant and known for their national monuments. Again, the group was small – me, Kathryn from Frankfurt, and Samir our Meet…

Pearls of Herzegovina

By: suemtravels February 19, 2019September 10, 2019

Bosnia and HerzegovinaBalkan Mountains, Balkans, Battle of Neretva, BiH, Blagaj Tekija, Blagaj Tekija Sufi Monastery, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Buna River, Cvrsnica Mountain, Fort of Počitelj, Gavrakanpetanović House International Art Colony, Hajji Alija Mosque, Hamam Public Baths, Han Public Inn, Hayruddin Turkish Builder, Herzegovina, Imaret Charitable Kitchen, Josip Broz Tito, Konjic, Konjic Old Stone Bridge, Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque Minaret, Kravice Falls, Kravice Waterfall, Kriva Ćuprija Arch Bridge, Kujundžiluk Bazaar, Kula, Légion d'Honneur, Medresa High School), Meet Bosnia, Mekteb Muslim Primary School, Mostar, Mostar Diving Club, Mostar Old Bridge, National Monuments Bosnia and Herzegovina, Neretva River, Neretva River Canyon, Neretva River Valley, Old Bridge of Mostar, Order of Bath, Ottoman Empire, Ottoman-Era Fortress Počitelj, Plavac Mali Grapes, Plavic Mali Winery, Pocitelj, Prenj Mountains, River Buna, Sahat-Kula Clock Tower, The Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia (SFR), Tito's Bunker, Tito's Nuclear Bunker, Tito’s Yugoslavia, Trebižat River, Turkish Builder Hayruddin, Velez Mountain, Wine Cellar Begić in Ljubuški Herzegovina, Yugoslav Partisans, Zlatar Mountain3 Comments

On Monday the weather was warm and beautiful so I took a long day tour of Herzegovina – 8 am until 9 pm. There were three of us – me, a German tourist from Frankfurt, and Adnan, our Meet Bosnia guide. It’s hard to say which places were favorites because everything was exceptional. The main…

Sarajevo Walking Tour

By: suemtravels February 17, 2019March 6, 2019

Bosnia and Herzegovina, European CitiesAli Pasha's Mosque Old Town, Archangels Michael and Gabriel, Aškenazi Synagogue, Baklava Dućan, Balkan Jewish Traditions and Customs, Baščaršija Square, Bezistan Shopping Center, Blagaj, Bosnia Sandzak, Bosnian Coffee, Bosnians in the Habsburg Monarchy, Cathedral of Sacred Jesus’ Heart, Catholic Cathedral, Eternal Fire Sarajevo, Franz-Ferdinand˙s Assassination Site, Gazi Husrev-Begova Street, Gazi Husrev-Bey Mosque, Goldsmith’s Street, Habsburg Monarchy, Herzegovina, Hotel Europe, Isa Beg Ishakovich, Isa Begov Hamam, Jajce, Kazandžiluk Oldest Street in Sarajevo, Konjic, Kurshumli Madresa (Museum Gazi Husrev Bey), Latin Bridge, Lunar Time, Meet Bosnia, Mostar, Mula Mustafa Baseskija Street, Old Jewish Temple, Old Orthodox Church, Ottoman Rule, Pocitelj, Sarajevo, Sarajevo City Hall, Sarajevo Clock Tower, Sarajevo Meeting of Cultures Ferhadija Street, Sarajevo National and University Library, Sarajevo Old Town, Sarajevo Roses, Sarajevo Sebilj, Sebilj Fountain, Siege of Sarajevo, Statue of Pope John Paul II, Tašlihan Caravan Saray, The Cathedral of Jesus’ Sacred Heart, Travnik, Vijećnica, White Fortress, Zlatarska Street, Šeher-Ćehaja Bridge3 Comments

I’ve been exploring Sarajevo but decided to join a guided walking tour today. We walked several hours mostly covering territory in Old Town. Several Bosnians started the tour group – Meet Bosnia – a few years ago. They’re clearly passionate about their city. The tour was rich in history and stories. The Meet Bosnia office…

Sarajevo Bosnia and Herzegovina

I love Sarajevo – a cool European city with a laid back atmosphere! It’s comfortable and easy to blend – a treat exploring such an agreeable place. The people are friendlier than Berlin, Croatia, and Montenegro. Performing Arts and Architecture My apartment is along the Miljacka River which has 20+ bridges. It’s near Old Town close to…

Kotor Montenegro to Sarajevo

By: suemtravels February 11, 2019May 12, 2019

Bosnia and HerzegovinaArchduke Franz Ferdinand of Austria, Austro-Hungarian Rule in Bosnia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Bosnia and Yugoslav Wars, Bosnia Electric Tram Network, Bosnia-Serb Activist Gavrilo Princip, Jerusalem of Europe, Jerusalem of the Balkans, Kotor Montenegro, Latin Bridge Sarajevo, Miljacka River, Roman Bridge Sarajevo, Sacred Heart Cathedral Sarajevo, Sarajevo, World War ILeave a Comment

Tomorrow I leave Kotor for Sarajevo – the capital and largest city in Bosnia and Herzegovina. It’s exciting to visit Sarajevo even in the winter when it’s cold with snow flurries in the forecast. Although I appreciate the medieval cities, exceptional nature, and beautiful coastal areas in Croatia and Montenegro, I also enjoy the energy…

Bosnia and Herzegovina – Počitelj, Medjugorje, Mostar

By: suemtravels January 29, 2019September 11, 2019

Bosnia and Herzegovina, CroatiaAbandoned Airport Hanger Bosnia, Adriatic Coast, Apparition of Our Lady of Peace, Arboretum Trsteno, Austro-Hungarian Rule in Bosnia, Blagaj Tekke, Blessed Virgin Mary of the Gospa, Bojići Village, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Bosnian War, Bruce Lee Statue, Buna River, Capljina, Croatian Gozze Family, Croatian sculptor Ivan Fijolic, Croatian Wild Boars, Daksa Island, Death of Yugoslavia Tour Mostar, Dervish Monastery, Dervish Monastery Mostar, Duboka River, Dubrovnik Bridge, Franjo Tudjman Bridge Dubrovnik, Franjo Tudjman President of Croatia, Hindin Han Restaurant Mostar, Hutovo Blato Nature Park, Josip Broz Tito Former President of Yugoslavia, King Stjepan Tvrtko, Koski Mehmed Paša Mosque, Kravice Waterfalls, Medjugorje, Međugorje Mountain, Milorad Dodik, Mosque of Mostar, Mostar, Mostar Old Bridge, Mostar Street Art festival, Mostar Underground Airport Hangar, Neretva Hotel, Neretva Hotel Tito's Palace, Neretva River, Neum, Neum Corridor, Nezavisna Drzava Hrvatska, Nezavisna Drzava Hrvatska - NDH, Opuzen, Ploče, Pocitelj, Port of Ploce, Počitelj International Art Colony, President Alija Izetbegovic of Bosnia-Herzegovina, President Franjo Tudjman of Croatia, President Slobodan Milosevic of Serbia, Rakija, River Neretva, Slano, Sniper Tower, Spanish Square Mostar, Stari Most, Stari Most UNESCO-Protected Old Bridge, Ston, Sufi Brotherhood, Sufism, Tito, Trebižat River, Vrbanja River, We Are All Living Under the Same Sky Street Art in Mostar, World Monuments Watch, World’s 100 Most Endangered Cultural Heritage Sites, Yugoslavia Wars, Zaton, Zavala Ravno, Zrinjevac Park, Šefik Džaferović, Željko Komšić of Croatia7 Comments

The day tour to Bosnia was interesting, and since my time in Dubrovnik is over soon, I decided to go rain or shine. Unfortunately, the weather was terrible putting a damper on photos and exploring. A dual-citizen, our guide shared history, folktales, and side stories about his life in Bosnia and Croatia. I’m still confused…