On Monday the weather was warm and beautiful so I took a long day tour of Herzegovina – 8 am until 9 pm. There were three of us – me, a German tourist from Frankfurt, and Adnan, our Meet Bosnia guide.
It’s hard to say which places were favorites because everything was exceptional. The main points included:
- Kravice Falls
- Wine Cellar Begić
Meet Bosnia guides are excellent. They’re gracious, professional, and provide clear and thorough information. Without taking sides or injecting personal opinion, our guide filled a few of the many gaps in my understanding of Balkan history and politics – a complicated subject!
Konjic – Stone Bridge, Tito’s Bunker
Our first stop was Konjic’s beautiful Ottoman Stone Bridge on the Neretva River. Built in 1682, the bridge was destroyed during World War II. After a prolonged period of reconstruction, it reopened in 2009. It’s known as a “point where Herzegovina joins Bosnia” and is on the list of National Monuments.
Konjic and the Neretva River Canyon are surrounded by spectacular Balkan mountains rich in cobalt, minerals, agriculture, and forests. Although we didn’t visit Tito’s Bunker, our guide provided information about it. Josip Broz Tito, president of The Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia, built a bunker near Konjic that could “withstand a nuclear attack of 20 – 25 kilotons” – unsure exactly what that means.
Tito’s Bunker was “the biggest secret of former Yugoslavia”. Between 1953 and 1979 it was built under Zlatar Mountain and cost $4.6 billion US dollars!!”
It includes eight alternative exits, one hundred rooms, and Tito’s luxurious residence. In case of a nuclear attack, it “was to be used by 350 hand-picked people from Yugoslav political and state leadership”. They could live comfortably in the bunker for six months without contact from the outside.
I’m pretty sure Tito alone is a whole chapter of Balkan history. Although he looks mean and evil in photos, many of his countrymen consider him “one of the most benevolent dictators in modern history”. He led the Yugoslav partisan forces to liberation from Nazi occupation without help from the Soviet Red Army.
After the war, Tito was the unifying figure in his country and led Yugoslavia from 1943 until his death in 1980. He had a “highly favorable reputation in both Eastern and Western Cold War blocs”.
“Josip Broz Tito, president of The Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia, received 98 foreign decorations, including the Légion d’Honneur and Order of Bath.”
“Tucked into mountain peaks of the Cvrsnica and Prenj” along the Neretva River, Jablanica’s mild climate is between Mediterranean and Continental. It’s a small town known for the Battle of Neretva and destruction of the Nereta Bridge.
During WW II, Jablanica was the site of the battle “where Yugoslav Partisans won an unlikely battle against the Axis forces”. Today, the remains of the bridge stand as a “symbol of wartime difficulties and human sacrifice”.
This was my second trip to Mostar. The first visit from Dubrovnik wasn’t ideal for many reasons including heavy rain. This time, the gorgeous old city at the foot of Velez Mountain was a delightful feast for the eyes! I wrote about Mostar in an earlier blog post and this time really saw the spectacularly beautiful historic city!
The Old Bridge is Mostar’s most famous attraction. Built by a Turkish builder in 1566 it’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We also enjoyed Kriva Ćuprija, the oldest arch bridge in Mostar.
Best of all I climbed the minaret of Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque, the second largest mosque in Mostar. I’ve always wanted to climb a minaret! The inside was interesting but the best part of the experience was the panoramic view from the top! Sadly, the sun wasn’t at a good angle for photos.
Kujundžiluk, Mostar’s Old Bazaar looks better in sunshine. Vendors, crafts, cafés, and cobbled streets lined with tourists.
Blagaj, a “haven of peace and natural harmony”, was a special part of the tour. It’s the location of Tekija – the Sufi Dervish Monastery. Built in 1520, the monastery is an important monument of the early Ottoman period in Bosnia-Herzegovina. Dervishes perform rituals there on special occasions, including Sufi Dhikr (praise to God).
Blagaj Tekija Monastery is on the River Buna surrounded by dramatic mountain views. Visitors can tour the inside of the monastery. Everyone enjoys the cool fresh water, warm sun, and blue skies. It’s truly a peaceful place.
We had a leisurely lunch at Restaurant Vrelo on the river bank across from the monastery. Since it’s off-season, it was peaceful and uncrowded.
After lunch we headed to Počitelj, a stepped Ottoman-Era Fortress village. It’s a magic place. We climbed the steps passing interesting medieval houses and pomegranate bushes to Počitelj Fortress. At the top, we scrambled up the narrow tower to unbelievable views across the village and River Neretva!
The view is “dominated by Hajji Alija’s Mosque, the mekteb (primary school), imaret (kitchen), medresa (high school), hamam (public baths), han (public inn), and sahat-kula (clock-tower)”. The most “dominant residential structure in the village is Gavrakanpetanović House, which has hosted thousands of artists and cultural actors from all over the world at the International Art Colony”. many of the artists moved away.
Kravice Falls, Trebižat River
Next stop was Kravice Falls on the Trebižat River. Hidden in the Balkan Mountains southwest of Mostar, Kravice Falls forms a “natural amphitheater”. For its “amazing beauty and untouched nature, it’s protected by Bosnia-Herzegovina as a natural rarity”. In the summer the waterfalls are a popular swimming hole and picnic area. They’re at their best in early spring.
Wine Cellar Begić
Our last stop was not part of the itinerary but the day had gone so well our guide asked if we’d like to stop by a small family winery – Wine Cellar Begić in Ljubuški Herzegovina – on the way back to Sarajevo. We agreed and arrived shortly before sunset.
It’s a lovely isolated vineyard started by a man who made wine for his family and friends and slowly got involved in the commercial market. Some of their wines are made from plavac mali grapes indigenous to the area. As the winery grows, they plan to expand and add a larger wine cellar and small restaurant. Plavac Mali is fantastic!
We toured the grounds and wine cellar and listened to interesting wine-making notes. At that point my brain was already saturated with details of the long day – I don’t remember much. It was a pleasant experience enjoying the sunset, a full moon rising, and sampling local figs, cheese, and other products made and grown on the winery. It was truly a Bosnian experience and time well spent with gracious hosts. We stayed longer than planned and didn’t begin our drive back to Sarajevo until late.