Victoria and Mahé Island Seychelles


Sunset Beach Mahé

At this point, no words describe Seychelles – different from any other place experienced! Durban is diverse with a subtropical climate, but the isolation, weather, and culture here are a drastic change. I spent the first few days befuddled and struggling to acclimate.

Mahé Cove

Seychelles Archipelago

The Seychelles is a remote archipelago of 115 tropical granite and coral islands in the Indian Ocean. It’s near the equator, northeast of Madagascar and 1,000 miles east of Kenya. Most of the islands are small and uninhabited.

Coco-de-Mer Seed

The archipelago includes 43 inner islands clustered around the three largest islands – Mahé, Praslin, and La Digue. The 72 “outer islands” are coralline cays, atolls, and reefs. Victoria is the capital and largest city in the Seychelles. It’s on Mahé, where 90 percent of the country’s 95,000 people live.

Map Seychelles

Diverse Population and Religions

The population is an eclectic mix of French, African, Indian, and Chinese immigrants. English and French are spoken but Seychellois Creole is the official language.

Harbor View Chez Lorna

As with the people, there’s a diversity of religions on the islands. Religion is an important part of life in the Seychelles, and Roman Catholicism is dominant. It’s practiced by over 90 percent of the population, but there are also Anglicans, Hindus, Buddhists, and Muslims. Last Sunday, traffic on the main street in Victoria came to a standstill with hundreds of Catholics marching and praying.

Seychelles is a “melting pot” of the many people who settled the islands:

Carnivorous Pitcher Plant

_____________

“Each wave of new residents contributed something unique to the remarkable blend of language, music, arts, and religion that characterizes the Seychelles.”

_____________

Seychellois Children

Seychelles Politics

Seychelles is a young nation of 40 years with a “presidential republic“. The President of Seychelles since 2016, Danny Antoine Rollen Faure, is head of state and government in a multi-party system. The government and National Assembly share executive and legislative powers.

Black Parrot Seychelles National Bird

Have observed grumblings from locals who seem unhappy with the government, especially business people. Apparently, there’s abundant red tape for businesses, and the government adds a 15% tax to everything.

Cove Near Sunset Beach

Getting Around and Weather

For now, I’m living without a rental car, but the SPTC (Seychelles Public Transport Corporation) isn’t well-organized, and the buses are frustratingly erratic. None of them drive the steep hill to my accommodation. It’s a half mile to the main road – good exercise but in the heat….

St. Paul’s Cathedral Victoria

With the buses, you must know where you’re going, and I’m still learning the territory.  Bus stops are not marked with signage, and drivers don’t communicate well. A few times, I missed my mark by several miles. There isn’t abundant tourist support in Seychelles, so unless you’re staying at a fancy hotel, you’re on your own. If you’re adventurous and not rushed, the experience is interesting.

Scops Owl

I’m not in a hurry, and delays are a chance to mingle with the local people. Some of them are very shy. The hot, humid weather makes walking long distances difficult – at least until you adjust to the climate. I will be here through December and am considering a change in accommodation – another island or closer to the beach.

Michael Adams Victoria Botanical Garden

Seychelles accommodation is very expensive compared to South Africa. High import costs and operation expenses make prices in the Seychelles high for foreigners. Tourism is an important but unorganized industry. I’m learning again not to ask locals for directions – you get different info from each person, and it’s likely you may never get to your destination. Apps are helpful but in Seychelles, not 100% correct – maybe I’m using the wrong ones?

Beau Vallon Beach

Learned that Sunday is a day when nothing happens quickly, so it’s best to go with the flow and not follow a time schedule. Except for a few small markets and restaurants near the beaches, everything is closed on Sunday.

On Saturday, most shops shut down at noon – primarily a religious practice encouraged by the Catholic Church. This is the way South Africa was under the influence of the Dutch Reformed Church, but things changed significantly in the 90s.

Creole Buffet

Art and Activities

During the first few days I explored Victoria and Beau Vallon. Beau Vallon is a beautiful but touristy beach area, and Victoria a small bustling town with interesting people, art, and architecture. Most local artists have their own galleries. Michael Adams is one of my favorites.  He specialises in colorfast watercolors and silkscreen prints of people, land, and seascapes. Nigel Henri is a popular local artist whose acrylic paintings “decrypt the soul of Seychelles”.

Praslin Beach

I’m deciding which activities are best in this climate. It hasn’t been beach weather since my arrival – lots of warm, tropical rain. The weather is hot but nice in the Seychelles year-round. There is always rain. December is north-west winds monsoon season. You must forget your hair and makeup – it melts in minutes!

Cathedral of Our Lady of Immaculate Conception

There are several national parks and interesting hikes through the small mountain on Morne Seychellois National Park. Exploring cloud forests with exotic orchids, rare endemic birds, palms like the coco de mer, and other tropical plants is appealing.

Vanda Orchid Mahé Seychelles

Val Riche-Copolia trail is said to pass a variety of interesting plant species like the carnivorous Pitcher Plant. I saw one years ago in Borneo, and watched it devour an insect lured by the flower and fatally trapped inside the “pitcher”.

Seychelles Gannet

In the heat and humidity, you must start hiking early – around 6 am. Sun this close to the Equator is fierce! I was told to expect my skin color to change before I leave the islands – without sunbathing…. Snorkeling is on the agenda and maybe some kayaking. They say swimming is dangerous because of heavy undertow. So far, I haven’t seen surfers, so maybe there is better surfing on other islands.

La Domus Catholic Priest Residence Victoria

_____________

The cuisine that is uniquely Seychellois is a combination of flavours from African, French, Chinese, Indian, and English cooking. 

_____________

Nigel Henri Seychellois Artist

The beaches have shark barriers, but I’ve read conflicting information about how effectively they protect swimmers. The sand is soft and clean with interesting boulders along the shoreline. The water is picture-perfect turquoise blue! I plan to visit Praslin and La Digue and some of the closer small islands but have not yet taken the ferries or ventured out on the ocean.

Marie-Antoinette Interior

Marie-Antoinette Creole Restaurant

Seychellois food is unique, and so far, my favorite restaurant is Marie-Antoinette, where they serve delicious authentic creole cuisine. I enjoyed a long, lingering lunch there last Saturday. Surprisingly, many of the restaurants on Mahé are expensive. Guess I got spoiled by the delicious, inexpensive food in South Africa.

Marie Antoinette Restaurant Victoria Mahé

At one time, Marie-Antoinette was a hotel built in “colonial style architecture with a high roof and polished wooden staircase”. The building dates to the 1800s. It became a national monument in 2011 and is home to the Livingstone Gallery, in honour of the late American adventurer, Henry Morton Stanley. Stanley stayed there often during the 1870s and named his accommodation Livingstone Cottage, after Dr. David Livingstone, a Scottish missionary presumed lost in Africa.

Some of the Creole dishes on Marie Antoinette’s menu include golden apple and pumpkin chutney, fish stew, chicken curry, aubergine fritters, and an unforgettable spicy mango salad. There’s a beautiful flower and spice garden surrounding the gorgeous building.

Seychelles Internet is slow and dicey, but more later, when possible…

2 thoughts on “Victoria and Mahé Island Seychelles

  1. Seychelles is a tough one Gwen – either that or I’ve been traveling for too long…. There’s lots more than meets the eye here and I’m trying to dig down and get there…. Every day I learn something new. Almost to the point where I don’t think about the spiders and lizards before going to sleep at night ;( – they’re everywhere!!!!!

    Like

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s