The short flight from Rome to Valletta was unremarkable. After scrambling a bit, I found the KM Malta Airlines counter hidden in a back corner of the airport. I’m going to research Italy/Malta relations. Malta was one of the most intensively bombed areas during WWII. During the Siege of Malta, “Germany and Italy flew 3,000 Malta bombing raids over two years and dropped 6,700 tons of bombs on the Maltese Grand Harbor alone.”
Where am I?
In Malta, several people have approached me thinking I was French, and one asked if I was German – they were shocked to hear an American accent :o). The funniest was an Italian in Rome who asked me for directions?
Acclimation
The Maltese people are friendly and have a unique appearance, resulting from a mix of European, Mediterranean, and North African influences. Although I visited Malta a few years ago during a fast-paced daytrip from Sicily, not sure it counts as a “real” visit. Everything is new to me. The weather is warmer than Rome (high 50’s-60s), and it occasionally gets very windy. Forget your hair – it’s hopeless, and hats fly away. The strong winds in Malta remind me of Cape Town southeasters. So far, there have been a few short thunderstorm bursts followed by sunshine.
_____________
Malta is located in the central Mediterranean Sea, a “corridor for shifting high- and low-pressure systems between North Africa and Europe”. The area is affected by the “Westerlies and strong local winds like the NW (Majjistral) and NE (Grigal)“.
_____________
I’m acclimating, learning how to get around, and deciding the best way to spend the next two weeks in Malta. Each new country requires adjusting to different everything – accommodation, food, transportation, weather, etc., so it takes a few days to make the transition. Malta is a huge change from Rome – the pace of life is much slower.
I won’t be driving, but local taxis are reasonably priced and buses take you anywhere – if you can figure out their route and where to catch them… In mid-February, I leave for Belgrade, where the people are friendly, food is good, and there are interesting things to do, including world-class ballet, opera, and symphony.
Belgrade protests have been in the news for several years. They’re a reaction to claims of “government corruption and inaction“. Some describe president Aleksandar Vučić as a “populist politician who supports the accession of Serbia to the EU but also wants to retain good relations with Russia and China”. Critics describe him as an “authoritarian autocratic or illiberal democratic, citing curtailed press freedom and a decline in civil liberties”. The protests aren’t new, as I remember them during previous Belgrade visits. They were massive and peaceful, but I’m getting sidetracked, so back to Malta…
_____________
“The Maltese Archipelago has a history of colonial control spanning centuries. The islands have been occupied by Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Arabs, Knights of Malta, France, and Britain.” Malta joined the EU in 2004.
_____________
History
One thing I’ve noticed about Malta is the large number of “Europe-bound migrants” – many from northern Africa. There’s also a considerable Filipino population. Maltese and English are the primary languages spoken. The Maltese language is derived from Arabic, with a blending of Italian and English.
Malta gained independence from Britain in 1964, after the British awarded the “Maltese people the George Cross for defending crucial military bases during WWII”. It’s the “highest award given by Britain for non-operational acts of gallantry“.
_____________
“A key Mediterranean entry point, Malta has seen hundreds of African migrant arrivals. Many originated from Sudan and Eritrea, where they fled political oppression and civil war. Upon arrival in Malta, migrants face detention, high risks of exploitation, and social, cultural, and racial tensions.”
_____________
Malta’s “position in the Central Mediterranean Sea makes it an important trading post for container and freight transshipment“. It’s also a popular holiday destination, with tourism a main source of income. The area is known as the “world’s deadliest migration route, with 24,000+ deaths recorded between 2014 and 2024”.
Politics
Malta is a “parliamentary representative democratic republic with a highly-polarized two-party system dominated by the Labor and Nationalist parties”. Elected in 2024, Labour Party member Myriam Spiteri Debono is Malta’s 11th and current president. Before becoming president, she served as Speaker of the Maltese House of Representatives.
Debono was proceeded by George Vella, a veteran Labour Party politician elected in 2019. He also served as Malta Deputy Prime Minister and Foreign Minister. Other Maltese politicians of note include Prime Minister Robert Abela, Labour Party leader, and Joseph Muscat, former Maltese President who resigned during fallout from the 2017 murder of investigative journalist Daphne Caruana Galizia.
_____________
“Top Maltese residential and tourist areas include Sliema and St. Julian’s for nightlife and sea views, Valletta the historic capital, and quieter areas like Mellieħa Bay, Swieqi and “The Three Villages” – Attard, Balzan, Lija.”
_____________
Safety
Reckless drivers, heavy traffic, and petty crime like pickpocketing are “common” in parts of Malta. I barely survived a wild driver speeding along narrow sidestreets with no crosswalks. It was scary… Most places are described as “very safe” during the day, but walking alone late at night isn’t recommended. I’m traveling with a “pickpocket proof” sling bag that even I have trouble getting into – good luck to pickpockets. To feel safer at night, I attached a personal alarm with an LED flashlight to my backpack. It accidentally went off a few days ago, and the alarm makes a shrill, ear-piercing noise.
Beaches, Hiking, Architecture
The Maltese Archipelago is noted for pristine, stunning beaches, but swimmers should beware of dangerous undercurrents and jellyfish. For 8 years, Maltese beaches have received Europe’s 98.9% excellent rating – second only to beaches in Cyprus. The islands also have great inland hiking trails. Gorgeous Maltese architecture “flourished from 1530 to 1798, while the islands were ruled by the Knights Hospitallers Order of St. John “. In the mid-16th century, the knights introduced Renaissance architecture to Malta. A century later, Baroque became popular.
_____________
“Driving around Malta isn’t for the timid. If you decide to rent a car, be prepared to drive with traffic and be creative.” LandLopers
_____________
So far, I’ve booked two tours – a cruise from Sliema around Malta harbors and a full-day Gozo jeep tour of island villages and landmarks. Other attractions of interest include:
- Għar Dalam – prehistoric cave Paleolithic art, Ice Age artifacts
- Grand Master’s Palace – built by the Knights of St. john
- Upper Barrakka Gardens – public square with harbor views
- Mdina Ditch Gardens – built in the 15th century
Neighborhoods
Malta’s “diverse neighborhoods range from bustling, cosmopolitan coastal hubs to quiet, historical inland towns”. My apartment is in Qormi, an inland town about a 15-minute drive from Valletta. Qormi has an “authentic, local” Maltese vibe. It has excellent bakeries – the bread is fabulous! There are many historic churches in Qormi, and lovely church bells ring throughout the day, every day.
More later…