The National Gallery of Modern and Contemporary Art (GNAM) houses thousands of works representing local and international artists. Many of the Italian artists were new to me. I found their depiction of life in the 19th century and post-WWII era compelling. It would require considerable research to fully understand the significance of the art works displayed. Audio guides weren’t available, and captions were in Italian, but I’m not complaining.
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During the late 19th century and post-WWII era, “Italy underwent two radical transformations: Risorgimento (Unification) and the Miracolo Economico (Economic Miracle)”.
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Getting to the museum from my apartment was complicated. Thinking I had mastered public transportation – ha, I was surprised to get another lesson in navigating Rome. The Metro doesn’t reach outlying areas, so you must transfer to a bus or tram or walk – sounds straightforward? Of course, you could eliminate the hassle altogether by paying a small fortune for a taxi or uber.
Walking is good (especially after eating pasta and pizza), but the goal was spending time in the museum, so the 19NAV seemed the best option. I didn’t realize that there were different “versions” of the tram leading to and from the National Gallery – mamma mia… With help from a nice local, I caught the right one minutes before taking an unwanted boondoggle through Rome.
History
The GNAM opened in 1883, but over the years, the museum has expanded and been refurbished. The title of the current exhibition, “Time is Out of Joint,” influenced interior design and restructure. The neoclassical-style building designed by architect Cesare Bazzani, is surrounded by Villa Borghese park, including a small lake where you can rent rowboats. The column-lined entrance is accessed by climbing steep marble steps. Near the top, there are life-sized bronze lion sculptures by local artist and art professor Davide Rivalta.
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“The title of the current exhibition, “Time is Out of Joint,” is based on the elasticity of the concept of time in William Shakespeare’s play Hamlet.”
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Current Exhibition
The current exhibition documents the “Roman artistic scene between the second half of the 19th century and the post-WWII era”. Sculpture, painting, and graphic art are displayed in over 50 uniquely-designed rooms. Titles of exhibits in each room are displayed over the entryway.
“Artists created their works as a testament to the best of Rome during that era.” Exhibitions include art from “movements like Futurism, the Secession, the Roman School, the Novecento, and the Return to Order. Then, they continued with the “post-WWII era featuring Abstraction, Informalism, and the Neo-Avant-Garde”. Exhibition rooms are named after famous artists like Modigliani, de Chirico, Pascali, Corcos, Sogni, Pollock, Duchamp, Cezanne, Klimt, Warhol, Fontana, Rodin, Monet, and others. The amount of art in the massive exhibition is dizzying.
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“The works on display at the GNAM tell the story of Rome’s history, not just that of art”.
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Heracles and Lichas
Near the exit, you see the “highlight of the collection,” a magnificent statue, “Heracles and Lichas, by sculptor Antonio Canova. Created in 1815, it depicts Heracles hurling Lichas, one of his servants, into the sea. You can read about the story from Greek mythology by clicking on this link.
Smaller sculptures in the room are of gods, goddesses, and mythological figures. The sculptures are displayed on a spectacular blue-mirrored, glass-reflecting floor created by Pino Pascali to depict the sea.
Malta Next
Photos of favorites are included in this post – several are uncaptioned. I’ll be leaving Rome for Valletta Malta in a few days. This time in Rome has been a happy and educational experience. Espresso-fueled outings kept me on my toes! It’s sad that just as you begin to feel in tune with the local vibe, it’s time to move on to another country.
