Kuching Malaysia

My first trip to Malaysia was so many years ago, I honestly can’t remember the date. I was living in San Francisco, so it was before retirement and keeping a travel diary – indispensable for remembering trip experiences. It was a fast-paced group tour starting in Kuala Lumpur and traveling through Sarawak and Sabah. We climbed Mt. Kinabalu, visited nature areas – a sea turtle conservation island and a center for orphaned orangutans – and spent several days at an Iban longhouse in the rainforest. This solo trip is slower, focusing on the Malaysian people and culture.

Again, I’m the oddball in the crowd… I was exhausted after a long trip from Tbilisi, with a grueling seven-hour layover in Istanbul – that even an comfortable airport lounge couldn’t appease. Hungry and tired, I walked to a nearby open-air restaurant – icafe – and was the only non-Muslim dining. One other woman didn’t have a head covering – everyone was wearing long sleeves and skirts. In my short sleeved t-shirt, I felt like a tart.

Everyone was nice, and I took their curious stares in stride – they weren’t unexpected or threatening. Ive experienced worse. One little boy kept giving me the evil eye, until I made a funny face back at him – then we were friends. He waved goodbye as I was leaving. Malaysian men are less friendly to a solo woman traveler than women and children. It’s another lesson in forgetting yourself and trying to blend with the locals and environment. I long ago gave up trying to “explain myself” while traveling abroad solo. Malaysian families often dine together, and you see generations seated at large tables. The food at icafe is great, including fabulous fresh al dente vegetables.

Upon returning to my apartment, I unpacked all my scarves and long-sleeved tops! So far during this trip, religion has played a major role in almost every country visited – especially Turkey, Serbia, Georgia, and now Malaysia – Muslim to Orthodox and back to Muslim. By comparison, I didn’t notice strong religious aspirations in Poland or Slovenia, where Catholicism is the primary religion.

My apartment is a 30-minute walk from the Kuching Waterfront – a popular gathering place along the south bank of the Sarawak River. The area is known for food stalls, restaurants, and colonial-era buildings – including the Chinese History Museum, Sarawak Steamship Building, and Square Tower. There’s also a modern amphitheatre with live entertainment.

I’ll be in Kuching for a month, and then will play it by ear, perhaps extending my stay at a different location in Malaysia. There’s little public transportation, so I’m considering renting a car. So far, the erratic traffic and roundabouts are a bit daunting. Like South Africans, Malaysians drive on the wrong side of the road :o).

There are two excellent, inexpensive local versions of uber – Grab and Maxim. I downloaded both apps to my iPhone, so for now, I’m set for getting around Kuching. Paying by a credit card saved on the apps is easy and safe. Also got a local SIM card loaded with data at less than half the cost in most other countries.

I met an interesting Malaysian woman on the flight from Kuala Lumpur to Kuching. It was fun talking with her. A pediatrician, she had been visiting Oxford in the UK. She gave me her card, and I’ll likely contact her as the trip progresses. When traveling solo, knowing a local in a foreign environment is helpful.

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“The Rainforest World Music Festival (RWMF) is an annual three-day music festival celebrating the diversity of world music. Held in Kuching June 28 – 30 this year, it includes daytime music workshops, cultural and craft displays, food stalls, and main-stage evening concerts in the rainforest, under the dramatic backdrop of Mount Santubong. The Festival features a wide range of performance styles and music genres, from traditional to fusion and contemporary.”  rwmf.net

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It’ll take a few days to acclimate. It’s been raining part of most days – big thunder and lightning – followed by clear skies. I have a ultra-light rain jacket, and an umbrella is essential. The weather is hot and humid, but my apartment is airconditioned – great for sleeping and cooling down after a long walk. The apartment is different – huge with an outdoor kitchen, koi pond, small gym, and thankfully, a washer / dryer. I’m anxious to experience the “endless” swimming pool!

Haven’t planned any outings until I get my bearings. So far, Kuching reminds me a bit of a 2022 visit to Hanoi Vietnam, but it’s much less crowded, not as many noisy motorcycles, and of course, the people are different and noticeably easy going. I’ve almost given up staying tuned to world news – so much is happening everywhere, it’s staggering.

I plan to get a ticket for the Rainforest World Musical Festival June 28 – 30 – it sounds fun. I understand there are gentle hiking trails of various lengths in the area and also some challenging ones – if you’re up for climbing Mt. Santubong. Sampan trips and rainforest excursions are definitely on my itinerary, and there are several Kuching museums and galleries to explore. Visiting the beautiful island of Penang is also on my list.

More later…