It will be fantastic returning to Belgrade! Mediterranean resort towns like Datça are healthy and relaxing, but after a rejuvenating stay, I’m happy to be back in a city. Although the trip from Tukey to Serbia isn’t long, it will be tiring – Datça – Marmaris – Istanbul – Belgrade – but I’m not complaining. The worst part is packing heavy winter clothes that are no longer necessary.
This is my third visit to Belgrade. By now, I’m familiar with the city layout and cultural venues. There’s plenty to see and do, and it’s a comfortable environment, where English is spoken widely. I’ve booked several Belgrade Philharmonic concerts. The phenomenal orchestra is popular, so their concerts sell out quickly. I was happy being able to book online.
New Concert Hall
Construction of a modern new Philharmonic Concert Hall is expected to begin in 2027, with an opening in 2032. The contemporary hall will be built in New Belgrade, “more precisely, in Block 13 – between Ušće and Serbia Palace” – an area where the orchestra currently conducts summer open-air concerts.
Daytrips and Galleries
I hope to enjoy daytrips to national parks, float on the Sava River in a splav, and view art at several galleries:
- Ulična Galerija – street gallery of independent and activist art
- Galerija ŠTAB – riverfront location highlighting local artists
- Serbian Academy of Sciences & Arts – regional art Mihailova St.
- Eugster – contemporary art
- Salon Museum of Contemporary Art – Serbian & Yugoslav art
Eclectic Architecture
I’ll explore areas missed during previous visits. Centuries of control by Eastern European powers produced a “layered” city. Each new leader ‘built on top of the last”. The Romans built a Celtic fortress; Austro-Hungarians created a citadel; and Ottomans adjusted the skyline by building minarets that were eventually replaced by Yugoslavia’s brutalist architecture.
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“Subterranean walking tours of Belgrade’s historic centre provide glimpses of its different iterations, from the sturdy walls of antiquity to Cold War spy cellars.” SJ Arnstrong, National Geographic
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Belgrade is an active city, so with the arrival of spring, the atmosphere will be lively and fun. Spring weather has been unseasonably warm, but is expected to cool off before my arrival – making it perfect for exploring.
Belgrade 2024 Parliamentary Rerun Election
I have no idea if “political vibes” will be in the air, but it’s safe to say much of the world today is in a state of chaos. Even with tension during Turkey’s April 2024 local elections, sleepy Datça was peaceful. However, Belgrade is experiencing stressful issues, including a “parliamentary rerun election” scheduled for June.
After December 17 parliamentary and City Assembly elections, protests organized by the Serbia Against Violence (SPN) opposition called for the annulment of results. They accused the ruling SNS party of “voter fraud,” and asked the EU to “help improve Serbia’s election conditions“.
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“In February 2024, the European Parliament adopted a Resolution calling for an investigation – by respected international legal experts and institutions – into irregularities reported during and after Serbian elections.” BalkanInsight
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In March, the Serbian Progressive Party (SNS) announced that a rerun election would be held for Belgrade City Assembly. President Vučić “criticized the opposition by indicating they wanted his name off the ballot, because they can’t beat him“.
During previous visits in 2019 and 2021, I recall large but peaceful public demonstrations protesting Serbian elections. Didn’t realize I would be visiting Belgrade during an election controversy, but it’ll be interesting.
Kosovo
Kosovo is another controversial issue for Serbia. The Balkans in general and Kosovo in particular are extremely complex subjects, at least to me. This summary is a simplistic attempt to describe the basics, without injecting misinformation.
Until the break-up of Yugoslavia in the 1990s, Kosovo was a province of Serbia. Serbia’s rule over Kosovo ended in 1999, when “NATO intervened to stop fighting between Serbian security forces and ethnic-Albanian guerrillas“.
In 2008, Kosovo declared its independence, but “Serbian leaders don’t believe Kosovo has a right to independence”. Continuing conflict between Serbia and Kosovo is due to “radically different historical narratives regarding sovereignty and territorial integrity”.
The latest development creating tension is a recommendation that Kosovo become a member of the Council of Europe (CoE), a human rights body. During the membership process, the CoE Parliamentary Assembly will “monitor Kosovo’s fulfilment of an extensive list of commitments and obligations“.
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“In May 2024, the Council of Europe (CoE) Committee of Ministers will make its final decision on Kosovo’s membership. Kosovo applied for CoE membership on May 12, 2022, after Russia was expelled for launching an all-out attack against Ukraine.” qha
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Zeleni Venac
Politics aside, my Belgrade apartment is located between Savski Venac and Stari Grad municipalities, near the busy Zeleni Venac (Green Wreath) neighborhood and open market. It’s a great location. Brankov Bridge, New Belgrade, sidewalk cafés, museums, restaurants, riverbank parks, and music venues are all within walking distance. I keep my itineraries loose and open, but depending on how things go and the availability of accommodation, I may spend a few months in Belgrade.
More later…
Enjoy!