After a six-month hiatus, it’s fantastic travelling again, and waking up in beautiful Kraków – a new city for me! The week before departure was plagued with mini disasters, including an ice storm that created havoc with Oregon trees and almost sent the top of a lodgepole pine flying into my house. Needless to say, I left the landscape in disarray, hoping the maintenance gardener sorts things out – chainsaw required!
Oregon Ice Storm Recovery
Oregon needs time to recover from the massive tree damage – demolished cars, smashed roofs and windows, power outages, and business closures. Karma was playing with us. I labored diligently for several months, trying to contain the woods and tame the natural landscape surrounding my house. Things were looking good, until Mother Nature sent her ice storm, unleashing chaos and making it known who was boss. Gardeners are sad about the mess and plants damaged or destroyed by fallen trees.
Kraków
So far, the trip to Kraków has gone very well. I didn’t sleep on the flights, but they were on time and well managed. I flew Condor, a German offshoot of Lufthansa, and during the longest most wiggle-worthy flight – Seattle to Frankfurt – had a two-row side seat all to myself. Jet lag is a crazy thing, leaving you disoriented and wired, until your body’s circadian rhythms adjust.
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“Krakow – a royal city – is full of legends, priceless monuments of architecture and art, and good fun. The center of the historic capital of Poland enchants at first sight and has been inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List for over 40 years.” Polska Travel
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My apartment in the Podgórze District Jewish Ghetto quarter is cozy and located adjacent to Old Town and a stone’s throw from the Vistula River. The area has trendy, tastefully-decorated restaurants, wine bars, shops, and cafés.
The streets are clean and safe. So far, I’ve seen zero homeless people. Neighborhood restaurants serve a variety of quality food. The night I arrived in a semi-zombie state, I had dinner at Ramen People, a popular restaurant around the corner with an easy, laid-back atmosphere. The noodles, broth, and spices were delicious! The next evening, I visited a Thai restaurant and was blown away again by the freshness and spices of the food served. Traditional Polish food is next. Dining in Poland costs about a third of what you’d expect to pay at quality restaurants in the US, and service is excellent.
My immediate goal is learning the surrounding area and getting comfortable with Krakow’s transportation system. The soviet-era trams remind me of Prague, and I love riding them! Winter weather has ranged from clear to partially overcast and rainy in the high 30s to mid-40s – not as cold as anticipated. I’ve observed few tourists – a plus for off-season travel. Kraków is a fun, lively city. The people are friendly and polite, making you feel comfortable and at ease in their country. I’ve gotten lost a few times – what’s new – and locals were always helpful and kind getting me back on the right track.
Current Issues in Poland
Issues currently facing Poland include a trucker border protest which is suspended until March, an ongoing row between the Prime Minister, Donald Tusk, and President, Andrzej Duda, and concerns about Polish press freedom. Like in the US, some of the political issues are confusing and hard to wrap your head around. I’m learning many new things and am grateful to be spending quality time learning about Kraków.
Trucker Protests
Since November, truck drivers have blocked Polish-Ukrainian border crossings, “demanding restrictions be reintroduced for Ukrainian haulers”. The bloc waived the permit system after Russia’s full-scale invasion of Ukraine in February 2022. Polish haulers claim the move “created unfair competition from Ukraine and took a toll on their earnings”.
The war in Ukraine created an increase in cross-border transportation, because “main export and import routes across the Black Sea were blocked“. Transportation of fuel and humanitarian and military cargo is “taking up about 20% of border traffic”. While negotiations to find a solution are in process, truckers agreed to suspend protests for two months. Truckers also want empty trucks traveling from the EU excluded from Ukraine’s electronic queueing system.
Protests include miles of truck blockades along Poland-Ukraine border crossings. If a solution isn’t reached, the truckers vow to continue protesting. In addition to the truck blockade, French and Polish farmers are obstructing roads across Europe to protest restrictive regulations and high costs.
Row Between Prime Minister and President
Prime Minister Donald Tusk, of the liberal-left Civic Platform party, emerged victorious in the Polish parliamentary election last October. He pledged to “undo the policies of his predecessors in the nationalist Law and Justice (PiS) party, and punish those accused of wrongdoing”. Poland’s former Interior Minister, Mariusz Kaminski, and his ex-deputy, Maciej Wasik, were arrested inside the Presidential Palace in Warsaw and sent to prison on abuse of power charges.
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“The opposition warns that Poland could shift into being an authoritarian state if PiS wins an unprecedented third term, and has vowed to investigate and prosecute anyone involved in the numerous scandals that have roiled the government.” Politico
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Kaminski began a hunger strike the day after he was jailed. Kaminski and Wasik are members of the nationalist Law and Justice (PiS) party. After a fortnight in prison, both were pardoned by President Duda and released. They “vow to visit Parliament on their own terms“.
President Duda is “closely aligned with the PiS and has made it clear he will oppose Tusk’s agenda”. His second and final term runs until mid-2025. Tusk, who was European Council President 2014-2019, “plans to reposition Poland as a leader of the European Union”. After eight years of far-right nationalist rule, “Tusk remains a “loyal ally of the United States and NATO”. He “pledges to win full Western support for Ukraine in its war against Russia and mediate past hurdles with the EU”.
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“Poland’s ruling Law and Justice (PiS) party wants to accomplish something that’s never been done in the country’s democratic history — win a third term in office.” Politico
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Press Freedom
Reporters Without Borders (RSF) called on the European Commission and Parliament to investigate Russian influence in Poland’s internal security. In the run-up to Poland’s June 2024 parliamentary elections, the RSF claims the new state commission of inquiry into Russian influence is “being used to wage a witch hunt against press freedom and punish journalists critical of the government”.
The commission was established in May 2023, under a law passed by the national assembly and signed by President Duda. It “consists of nine members appointed by parliamentarians who were granted huge powers with no judicial control”. The RSF fears it will use the protection of national security to jeopardize freedom of the press and the right to information.
“Unconstrained by safeguards protecting press freedom, the commission is authorized to investigate the mass media. It can interrogate journalists and lift professional secrecy, including the confidentiality of sources. The commission also has the power to order judicial authorities to initiate criminal or disciplinary proceedings.”
The law establishing the commission has been dubbed the “Lex Tusk”. Opposition leader Donald Tusk thinks it threatens press freedom in Poland and is intended to prevent him from running in the upcoming 2024 parliamentary elections. Duda promised to submit changes to the law to the Constitutional Council, but “he lacks the power to enact amendments on his own“.
Pavol Szalai, Head of RSF’s EU-Balkans Desk, says the “legitimate objective of protecting national security must not be used as grounds for intimidating journalists critical of the government. The new law undermines press freedom, a democratic value dear to Poland. Without confidentiality of sources and effective judicial control, the possibility of a witch hunt exists. The RSF urges the European Commission and Parliament to examine the law in this light and take a firm stand”.
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“The international organization monitoring and promoting media freedom – Reporters Without Borders (RSF) – thinks Polish public television is involved in the election campaign on the side of the incumbent president and spreading government hate speech.” euractiv.pl
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When contacted by RSF, a government spokesperson said the commission was “democratic” and “all of its activities were subject to a two-tiered judicial review.” However, the commission’s decisions “can only be challenged on procedural issues and in administrative courts“. It’s “unclear whether the law provides protection of journalistic confidentiality”.
More news and photos from Kraków as I acclimate and explore…