Amman Citadel is an impressive open-air archaeological complex – a must-see for anyone visiting Amman. I didn’t realize that there were several significant landmarks at the site. It’s located on the highest hilltop in Amman – Jabal Al Qala’a – one of the seven hills (jabals) that originally made-up Amman.
Evidence suggests that the area has been inhabited since the Neolithic period 10,000 – 4500 BC. It’s one of the “oldest continuously inhabited places in the world“.
The area near the Citadel dates back to the Bronze Age (3300 BC – 1200 BC), when the heart of the site was encircled by a 1700-meter fortification wall. The ancient area was occupied by many civilizations –Roman, Babylonian, Ptolemaic, Seleucid, Nabataean, Byzantine, and Umayyad. The Citadel “witnessed the rise and fall of several empires“. It was modified and rebuilt many times, and known by different names (‘Ammān, Rabbath Ammon, Philadelphia, Jerash, Antioch) during diverse eras – Roman 63 BCE – 324 AD, Byzantine 324 – 635 AD, and Umayyad 661 – 750 AD.
Today, the Citadel complex includes the following ruins:
- Temple of Hercules – dating to the Roman period with two complete pillars and four pillar ruins
- Umayyad Palace Complex, Mosque, and Water Cistern – constructed between the 7th and 8th centuries
- 6th Century Byzantine Church – remains include pillars, a floor plan, and mosaics
- Jordan Archaeological Museum – a collection of artifacts dating back to the Bronze Age, including Ain Ghazal Statues
Roman Temple of Hercules
The Roman Temple of Hercules is the most famous ruin within the Citadel complex. It was built during the reign of Roman Emperor Marcus Aurelius, and its remains are visible from several vantage points throughout the city. Dating to the Roman period in the 2nd century CE (around 161 – 166 AD), the most distinguishable remains are two complete 30-foot-high pillars and their crumbling podiums, the ruins of four other pillars, and Hercules’ stone hand. The hand is the only remaining part of the Statue of Hercules.
Umayyad Palace, Mosque, Water Cistern
The 8th-century Umayyad Palace complex is a maze of royal residential building ruins. It’s the most beautiful structure in the Citadel, and I was fascinated by the spectacular domed audience hall. During the Umayyad Dynasty, the complex was built over the remains of Roman construction.
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“The city of Amman was originally known as Rabbath Ammon which translated as the royal ancient city of the Ammonites. The Ammonites lived in the kingdom during the Iron Age.” Tourist Jordan
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There’s a column-lined courtyard, an audience hall, and an ancient water cistern that once supplied the surrounding areas. The cistern held up to 1300 cu m of water and was “fed by inlet channels connected to a rainwater collection system“.
The well-preserved domed audience hall (mosque) is shaped like a cross, “mirroring the Byzantine church it was built upon”. Archaeologists have been working at the site since the 1920s, but “substantial sections have yet to be excavated”. Most of the palace structures were destroyed by an earthquake.
The Mosque is an example of a “Persian-style apadana hall,” normally found only in Persia and Mesopotamia (Iraq). It’s characterised by a “forest of columns”.
6th Century Byzantine Church
All that remains of the Byzantine Church are the pillars, floor plan, and some mosaics. It was built in 550 AD, using building elements from the nearby Hercules Temple – “one of the southern columns is a reused upside-down cylindrical block with a Greek inscription”. The cluster of buildings surrounding the church belong to the Umayyad period.
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“Amman, the capital of Jordan, is a unique blend of Old and New, situated on a hilly area between the desert and fertile Jordan Valley.” Holy Jordan
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Jordan Archaeological Museum
The Jordan Archeological Museum includes Neolithic statues, a Dead Sea bronze scroll written in Aramaic characters, and ancient items of daily life. Artifacts date back to the Bronze Age, and the museum’s spectacular Ain Ghazal Statues date around 600-8000 BCE (8700 to 8500 years ago). They’re some of the oldest known statues in Jordan and are made from lime plaster and reed.
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“Amman was known as Rabbath Ammon in the Old Testament and Philadelphia in the New Testament.” Holy Jordan
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Wadi Rum
In a few days, I’m headed to Wadi Rum, and looking forward to experiencing the magic of the Jordanian desert. I’m staying with a Bedouin tribe but haven’t decided whether to sleep under the stars, in a cave, or use a Bedouin tent. It’ll be interesting!
More later…