Hanoi City Motorbike Tour


Hanoi Opera House – cityseeker

During three incredible motorbike tours, I’ve learned a huge amount of new information about Hanoi and Vietnam! It’s too much to cover in a single blog post. I’ll separate the motorbike tours into three posts – City, Countryside, and Night Street Food. They were arranged through Asia Motorbike Adventures, and I highly recommend my friendly guide, Hoa. Although Hoa tried to teach me some Vietnamese, so far, the only words I’ve learned are – xin chào (hello) and cảm ơn (thank you)…

Hanoi Motorbikes

Motorbikes are the best way to explore Hanoi and navigate busy city streets! People ride them, because cars are extremely expensive, and parking is limited. Bus and train transportation is used for accessing outlying areas.

Grab On Demand Motorbike and Taxi Service – Facebook

They don’t use Uber. In Vietnam. It’s Grab on demand motorbike and taxi service. Booking is easy on the Grab app, or you can just hail one on the street. They’re easily recognizable in green jackets and helmets. A few Grab motorbike drivers have saved me, when I was exploring on foot and became lost, exhausted, and boiling in the hot Vietnamese sun.

After a four+-hour motorbike tour, I learned to cover up more for protection from the strong tropical sun. Even so, I got a sunburn. For Vietnam, you need sunblock and breathable UV clothing. I did my best with photos, but it’s hard to take them while riding on a motorbike, so I’ve supplemented with media shots.

Guide Hoa Train Street Hanoi Old Quarter
Complex History

A meaningful Hanoi visit requires a basic understanding of Vietnam’s unique culture and 1,000 years of history. From the 2nd Century BC to 2022, this includes decades of imperial colonization, war, border disputes, and occupations by China, Soviet Union, Japan, Cambodia, Laos, France, and the US.

French Quarter Hanoi – Vietnam Visits

For those interested, there are many articles and history books on the subject. I like the Vietnamese people and find them friendly, forgiving, peaceful, and sometimes misunderstood. Everything in Vietnam has a deeper, symbolic meaning. I learn something new every day! Before visiting, taking time to do a little research is beneficial.

Red River Burma, China, Laos, Vietnam – By Kmusser Wikipedia
Ancestor Worship

My tour guide, Hoa, was lots of fun! He enlightened me about many things Vietnamese, including street burnings that I referenced in a previous post. These “ritual offerings to deceased family members” are positive and viewed as “caring acts”.

Burning Joss Paper

“Fire and smoke help facilitate a connection between the two worlds of living and dead. By burning paper-versions of gifts, people can “transport them to their deceased family members”. The ritual burning of “joss paper” (aka ghost money) is a part of the Vietnamese religion known as “ancestor worship”. The “offering of gifts for the sake of deceased relatives, earns their blessings and takes care of them in the after-life”. The belief is that “those in the spirit-realm need to be cared for, the same as those in the physical world”.

West Lake at Sunset – Vietnam Discovery Travel
Bridges and Lakes

We began the City Tour with a ride near West Lake, the largest of 6 lakes in Hanoi. Then, we proceeded across Long Biên Bridge, a 100+-year-old cantilever bridge across the Red River. Long Biên is one of 8 bridges currently built over Red River. To accommodate Vietnam’s constantly-growing population, in addition to the existing bridges described below, several more are in the works:

New, projected Tran Hung Dao Bridge will connect three urban districts with the eastern part of Hanoi and reduce traffic on the Chuong Duong and aging Long Biên Bridges.

Red River Delta – rainforestcruises
Red River Delta and Great Vietnamese Famine of 1944-1945

Our first stop was the Delta on the banks of Red River. The Delta is an ideal location for rice paddies producing the staple crop that feeds the people.

Thanh Tri Bridge Red River – Photo Tran Dung Kinhtedothi Hanoi Times

In 1944, rice crop failures occurred due to a lack of dike maintenance after US bombings and typhoons brought major damage and flooding to the Delta. This contributed to a massive loss of rice plants, which resulted in a horrific famine and the tragic deaths of millions of Vietnamese.

Bach Thao Park Botanical Garden – Justgola

Japanese occupation and a failed French colonial administration are said to have “hindered effective famine alleviation”. Instead of cultivating rice in Hanoi’s Red River Delta, the French created coffee and rubber plantations in mountainous areas and expanded rice paddies in the southern Mekong River Delta.

Red River Delta – Wikidata

“The Japanese military occupied Vietnam in September 1940 and remained until 1945, the end of World War II. The pretext for the invasion was Japan’s ongoing war with China, which began in 1937. By occupying Vietnam, Tokyo hoped to close off China’s southern border and halt its supply of weapons and materials.”

But Thap Pagoda Buddhas – en.vietnamplus.vn VNA

“After the Japanese invasion, French colonial administrators occupied Vietnam from 1946 to 1954. “Whatever economic progress Vietnam made under French imperialists benefited the French and the small class of wealthy Vietnamese created by the colonial regime.” The Japanese takeover strengthened the Viet Minh national independence coalition founded in 1941 to fight joint Japanese and Vichy French occupation during World War II. This contributed to the anti-colonial First Indochina War.”

Banana Island and Long Biên Bridge – conicaltravel.com
Banana Island

Our next stop was Banana Island (Bãi Giữa), a wilderness farmland located in the Red River Delta below Long Biên Bridge. The island has about 200 residents who live a simple existence without water or electric utility systems. The island floods during high tide, so many residents live on boats docked by the river bank.

Banana Island with Hanoi Highrises in Background

Residents grow rice, bananas, and papaya. The glorious vivid-green fields are wonderful, and seeing them was one of my favorite parts of the tour! My guide, Hoa, grew up in northern Vietnam near the China border. He reminisced about similar rural terrain from his childhood. Even though life on Banana Island is basic, residents seem happy. The children create their own amusements, like hauling each other around on banana leaves.

Rain Poncho & Motorbike Helmet Ngõ 224 Lê Duẩn Alley Tracks
Train Street Old Quarter

Next, we had tea with locals along the train tracks of Old Quarter Train Street – Ngõ 224 Lê Duẩn Alley. In 2012, when I rode the Reunification Express from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City, the train passed along these very same tracks. Basic houses built by the Vietnamese government surround the tracks on both sides.

Vietnamese Flag – Vietnam Travel

Hoa says there are more alleys than streets in Hanoi, and alley apartment rentals are less expensive. Many people take small alley apartments near their jobs in Hanoi and maintain larger residences in the countryside, where they go to relax on weekends. Students and younger Vietnamese often rent a bedroom in one large flat, sharing the kitchen, bathroom, and living area.

Hanoi Train Street – Green-Eyed Traveler
French Quarter

The Opera House is one of Hanoi’s most beautiful French Colonial buildings. The structure was built by 3,000 Vietnamese who put in 30 tons of bamboo over 10 years (1901-1911) to shore up and strengthen the ground beneath the structure. Sadly, for their hard labor, the workers were paid a mere pittance of rice to feed their families.

Vietnam Symphony Conductor Honna Tetsuji – Capital Security Newspaper

The Vietnam National Symphony Orchestra 2022-2023 season opens in September. They’ll perform on September 2, led by Conductor Honna Tetsuji.

Vietnam National Symphony Orchestra – Facebook

More places of interest in the French Quarter include St. Joseph’s Cathedral, the National Museum of Vietnamese History, Trang Tien Plaza, Hoe Lo Prison Museum. and popular restaurants and patisseries. I’ll visit as many as possible!

National Museum of Vietnamese History – Pinterest
Ba Dinh Square

We stopped by Ba Dinh Square which contains Vietnam’s Governmental Agency Buildings, including Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum and the Vietnam National Assembly. Another place on my itinerary – Bach Thao Park (Hanoi Botanical Garden) – is near the square.

National Assembly House Ba Dinh Square – Uncover Vietnam

I’ll be in Hanoi for National Independence Day on September 2nd. It’s a national holiday, and there will be public celebrations.

Trang Tien Plaza – IPPG
Huu Tiep Lake and 1972 US Christmas Bombing Campaign

We visited Huu Tiep Lake and the remains of John McCain’s downed B-52 bomber from the 1972 US Christmas Bombing Campaign. Following the breakdown of peace talks with Communists in North Vietnam, US President Richard Nixon announced the massive bombing. Over a period of two weeks, the US bombed North Vietnam 24 times dropping over 20,000 tons of bombs, in the “biggest bombing campaign by US B-52 aircraft”.

John McCain’s Downed B-52 in Algae Ridden Huu Tiep Lake

After viewing the airplane wreckage, we had tea with a nearby resident, Duc, who lives a few feet from Huu Tiep Lake. Duc experienced the horrific bombings as a 12-year-old boy. Generations of his family have occupied the same house for over 1,000 years. Duc’s hobby is growing orchids, and his collection is impressive!

Muong Hoa Valley Fields Sapa © Bule Sky Studio Shutterstock
Sapa Vietnam

The City Tour was time well spent. There’s much to learn and explore in Hanoi. I’m also considering a trip to Sapa in the north to see its spectacular rice terraces and mountainous terrain. You can get there by overnight train or a faster bus ride. I’m told it’s a long, tiring trip.

More later…

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