Exploring New Belgrade Serbia

I spent most of the day yesterday exploring New Belgrade (Novi Beograd) on foot. The closest I got during previous Belgrade visits was enjoying panoramic views of the area from across the river at Belgrade Fortress in Kalemegdan Park. Novi Beograd is on the left bank of the Sava River. It’s a captivating place rich in history, but decidedly different than the urban district where I’m staying in central Belgrade.

The Novi Beograd district was “built from scratch after World War II, and is constructed primarily of concrete“. The word “block” (blokovi) is the word used to describe New Belgrade living areas. I’ve heard it said that Novi Beograd residents don’t consider themselves a part of Belgrade proper. They think of Novi Beograd as a unique place – “their own distinct city“. I find the massive concrete buildings and brutalist architecture overpowering.

_____________

“Often inspiring strong emotions – both of love and hate – Brutalist architecture remains one of the most divisive architectural styles of the modern age.” Architectural Digest 

_____________

The bus ride to New Belgrade started near Moscow Hotel and passed over the Danube River via Branko’s Bridge. Geographically, Belgrade lies at the confluence of the Danube and Sava Rivers in north-central Serbia.

The bus driver was “laid back,” so none of the stops were announced or displayed inside the bus on an automated location system. Luckily, I sat next to an English-speaking passenger who told me where to exit for a riverside walk by cafés, splavs, and raft moorings.

Saturdays are busy along New Belgrade’s riverside, especially when the weather is nice. It was a great opportunity to mingle and “people watch”. There weren’t many tourists, but hordes of locals were socializing and basking in the warm sunshine. There was an abundance of joggers, cyclists, couples, children, and dogs. Few face masks were worn.

History

“Surrounded by water, in a bend of the Sava River where it meets the Danube, New Belgrade territory is a former swampland. For centuries, it was a no-man’s land between the borders of the Ottoman and Austro-Hungarian empires.”

The oldest part of New Belgrade is Bežanija (meaning refugee camp), which became part of the Serbian capital after King Alexander I’s coup in 1929. World War II came and ended, with Josip Broz Tito gaining power, and Belgrade becoming the capital of socialist Yugoslavia.

_____________

“New Belgrade, the youngest of Belgrade’s 17 Municipalities, is a showcase of gritty communist architecture. It’s in complete contrast to the old core of the city located across the river.”

_____________

After the war in 1948, a huge construction project began to develop a “new city” and make Belgrade the “massive European capital that Tito so dearly wanted”. The project was designed according to modernist plans inspired by French architect Le Corbusier’s principles and socialist aspirations. In 1952, New Belgrade was officially designated a municipality. Today, it’s one of Belgrade’s most populous suburbs.

_____________

“Compared to the West, this planned city had a greater focus on shared spaces and shared labour, with the intention of promoting a more communal way of life.”  GrayScape Matthijs Kok

_____________

Over “200,000 workers and engineers from liberated Yugoslavia took part in the building process”. Work brigades included youth groups brought in from rural Serbia to provide manual labour and student volunteers from high schools and universities.

_____________

“Where a harmonious relationship between open space and buildings is achieved, the blokovi generate large squares with greenery, public services, kindergartens, and sport facilities, evidencing social interaction and appropriation.”

_____________

Building the city took “backbreaking labour that went on day and night”. There were “no notable technological tools to speak of“. The “mixing of concrete and spreading of sand was done manually. Horse carriages were used for extremely heavy lifting”.

New Belgrade Blocks

“Numbered 1 to 72, New Belgrade blokovi (blocks) are microcosms constituting local urban identity. Abstract in their naming and form, over the course of years, they developed their own character. Each block became a distinct neighborhood, with unique traits and a sense of belonging among its inhabitants.”

“Blokovi are designed according to varying concepts and typologies. From block to block, they exhibit different qualities of urban space. The ultimate result catalogues the virtues and vices of the modernist city, where a harmonious relationship between open space and concrete buildings is achieved. Evidencing social interaction and appropriation, the blokovi generate large squares with greenery, public services, kindergartens, and sport facilities.”

_____________

“Novi Beograd was a true source of pride for socialist Yugoslavia between 1945-1992. Workers, students, and normal people came from all over the state to help build the brand-new capital.”

_____________

Attractions

I spent the most time walking the riverside and Park of Friendship, a large flat green area along the Sava River. New Belgrade is known for fantastic food and restaurants. Soon, I plan to visit New Belgrade’s Museum of Contemporary Art. Some other major attractions are listed below:

• Eternal Flame – memorial victims of 1999 NATO bombings
• Hotel Yugoslavia
• Ušće Shopping Center
• Genex Tower – 30-story residential / 26-story office towers
• Sava Centre – large cultural / business center

Returning to more familiar central Belgrade territory, I sat in the outdoor café at Hotel Moscow contemplating my day, while enjoying espresso and a delicious Serbian pastry. The crowd was endlessly interesting!

Late in the afternoon, a small, peaceful religious demonstration passed by the hotel and ended at the nearby National Assembly and Presidential Court Palace. The purpose of the demonstration was unclear to me. Another group included excited fans who were gathering to celebrate the Belgrade Red Stars winning the 2021 Serbian National Soccer League title.

Boat Tour

Later this week, I’m looking forward to a sightseeing boat tour of neighborhoods along the Sava River, starting at the marina in New Belgrade’s Zemun neighborhood. It’ll provide a Belgrade “water perspective“.

Truly understanding the history and culture of an area takes concentrated effort, time, and patience but is very rewarding. I’ve learned 100% more about Belgrade and Serbia since my first visit, but have also done a fair amount of mindless wandering. :o) All in all, Saturday was another satisfying day exploring Belgrade!