Reef Safari Sainte Anne Island Seychelles

Approaching Sainte Anne Island

My day trip to Sainte Anne Marine National Park is a favorite memory. People in the group were as interesting as the exotic islands we explored. I enjoyed conversations with three fun couples:

  • Australian
  • British / South African
  • Seychellois
Catamaran Anahita

I chatted with Krishna from Chennai who has lived in the Seychelles for over 20 years. He’s an accountant for a luxury resort. Sadly, several years ago Krishna’s family moved to the UK – his wife is a physician – while he remained behind. He’s happy to relocate there in December and join them.

Beach Sainte Anne Marine Park

The Aussies – Margaret and Ray – were great company for a conversation-starved solo traveler. We enjoyed snorkeling, hiking, and sharing laughs and travel stories.

Mahé Island Port Launay –

The British South African couple – Jill and David – were unbelievably in their mid-80s and on a layover from a cruise. David is a talented engineer. He met Jill, who’s from Cape Town, in London and they married five weeks later.  They’ve lived all over the world – China, Africa, Australia, Canada, Malaysia, and more… Jill shared expressive stories of her full and active life.

Moyenne Beach Sign

The Seychellois couple – Carinne and François – were shy and quiet at first, but soon warmed up. Carinne had a few lively conversations with Jill and me. She talked about politics in the Seychelles and a growing dissatisfaction with corrupt government – not a unique scenario in Africa. She told us that several islands and resorts in the archipelago are owned by wealthy people from Asia and the Middle East. Shaikh Khalifa bin Zayed Al Nahyan, President of the United Arab Emirates and Emir of Abu Dhabi, built a controversial palace towering atop one of Mahé’s highest hills.

Moyenne Trail View
Semi-Submersible Boat

After several stormy days, the weather was remarkably clear but extremely hot! As is common in Seychelles, the skies became partially overcast as the day progressed. Starting at Mahé marina, we cruised on catamaran Anahita for about an hour, stopping to feed reef fish and revel in jaw-dropping scenery. Then, we boarded a small semi-submersible boat with glass windows to view the coral reef below.

Catamaran Anahita

Our guide provided commentary on the reef and its inhabitants. She described fringing and patch coral reefs and  explained how each creature in the reef contributes to its survival. Some of the fish we saw included zebrafish, oriental sweetlips, semicircle angelfish, and steephead parrotsfish. Parrotfish are fascinating! They change color as well as sex and the undigested coral they excrete becomes white sand on the seafloor.

Oriental Sweetlips
Steelhead Parrotsfish
Semicircle Angelfish


“Sainte Anne Marine National Park has a unique concentration of underwater ecosystems and coral gardens. The reserve’s seagrass meadows are the largest in the granitic bank of the Seychelles archipelago.”


Hiking Trail Moyenne

After viewing the reef, we jumped into the water to cool down and snorkel among the reef fish. The fish we saw were a bit disappointing, but everyone thoroughly enjoyed a swim in the warm Indian Ocean!

French East India Company Logo
Marine Protected Nature Reserve

“Sainte Anne Marine National Park is three miles from Mahé Island. Created in 1973 to protect a small group of six islands, it’s the South Western Indian Ocean’s first marine protected area. Only accessible by sea, the Marine Park has a unique concentration of underwater ecosystems and coral gardens. The reserve’s seagrass meadows are the largest in the granitic bank of the Seychelles archipelago.”

Six Islands in Sainte Anne Marine Park

The Marine Park covers about six square miles. Islands include Moyenne, Cachée, St. Anne, Cerf, Longue, and Round. Each island has unique, fascinating history and folklore. The islands have thick, tropical vegetation and white-sand beaches. Hawksbill turtles, manta rays, green sea turtlesbluespotted stingrays, and bottlenose dolphins flourish on the islands and are regular Park visitors.

Local Fruit Jamalac aka Rose Apple

The water surrounding the islands is shallow. At low tide, it almost recedes completely, making it possible to walk across the sand to other islands. If you aren’t already wet, your lower body will get soaked. It’s wise to wear sandals to avoid sharp pieces of broken seashells and coral, which can cause deep cuts on your feet.

St. Anne Buried Treasure

St. Anne is the largest island and site of the first French settlement in 1770 – a “courageous undertaking of an island surrounded by swamps teeming with crocodiles”.  During World War II, St. Anne was a military base for the Royal Marines. In the early 19th century, it was a whaling station. Today, it’s a nesting site for hawksbill sea turtles.

From Moyenne Hiking Trail


Visitors and locals share a fascination for legends of pirates and buried treasure. “Focus has been on Bel-Ombre, in the Northern part of Mahé Island, where it’s believed that notorious French pirate Olivier Le Vasseur’s from Calais hid treasure worth £150 million.”  Le Vasseur threw his treasure map to the crowd before being hanged.


French Pirate Olivier Le Vasseur

In 1756, Captain Corneille Nicholas Morphey, an explorer from the French East India Company, took possession of the Seychelles in the name of the King of France. Morphey named the island after Sainte Anne, Mother of the Virgin Mary. Upon his arrival, the island celebrated the Feast of Sainte Anne.

Mahé Island Harbor Windmills
Cerf Island

Cerf the second largest island, was named after Captain Morphey’s frigate Le Cerf. Cerf’s shallow water and coral reefs are popular for snorkeling, swimming, and diving. As part of Sainte Anne Marine National Park, it’s a protected island. Fishing is prohibited, and the diving and snorkeling are spectacular!

Secluded Beach from Moyenne Hiking Trail
Longue Island

Longue was once a prison island. Early French and Portuguese slavers used it to quarantine slaves being transported from Africa”. Morphey named the island for its oblong shape.

Bluespotted Stingray
Moyenne Island

Moyenne is “home to pirate graves, a chapel, the ruins of early settlers’ homes, and buried treasure”.  Giant tortoises roam freely throughout the island.

Inside Semi-Submersible Boat

In 1962, an English newspaper editor, Brendon Grimshaw, bought Moyenne for £8,000. Over time, he transformed the island into a giant tortoise nature preserve now worth 34 million Euros. It became the world’s smallest National Park in 2008.

Semi-Submersible Boat

Grimshaw died in 2012 and “bequeathed Moyenne to a non-profit NGO, the Moyenne Island Foundation Society, along with strict instructions that it must remain a park and no hotels can be built on the island”. Grimshaw’s parents spent time with him on the island and one of his dogs still lives there and is an avid fisher – we saw him in action! Grimshaw was buried on the island along his son and two unknown pirates whose bodies were found lying on a beach in Pirate Cove.

Anahita Deck


“Brendon and his Seychellois friend, Rene Lafortune, gradually and painstakingly created a nature reserve out of what was formerly a hunk of waterless bush.”


Mahé Harbor
Round Island

Round is a small, rocky island that “can be walked in less than 30 minutes”. It was once a leper colony and now has luxury resort cabañas and a popular Creole Restaurant.

French Pirate Olivier Levasseur –
Cachée Island

Cachée is a 5-acre uninhabited islet and nature reserve for breeding Brown Noddys. The island’s name means “hidden” in French. As its name suggests, located about 100 meters from Cerf Island, it “appears hidden either behind Cerf or to be part of it”.

Private Resort
Moyenne Island Hike

After a delicious Creole lunch aboard Anahita, we waded ashore to hike around Moyenne, enjoying spectacular sea views, palm trees, lush vegetation, and giant tortoises roaming everywhere. The hiking trail leads by coves, granite boulders, ruins, and a tiny chapel. Side trips off the main trail include Hanni’s Haunt and Treasure Peak. There are plentiful secluded beaches with magnificent sweeping views of surrounding islands and sea.

Aerial View Sainte Anne Marine Park

Brendon and Rene planted sixteen thousand trees and built nature paths encircling the island. The main path passes the remains of two old houses. One was formerly occupied by Melidor Louange, the earliest traceable owner. Melidor acquired the island in 1850 and lived there with Julie Chiffon for 42 years. He sold the island to an eccentric Englishman – Alfred d’Emmerez de Charmoy from Berkshire.

Island from Anahita Deck

Another ruin, known as the “House of Dogs”, was built by Emma Wardlow-Best – an English woman who loved dogs. She collected stray dogs from Mahé Island and gave them food and shelter on Moyenne. Best owned the island between 1899 and 1919.

Moyenne House of Dogs Ruin

Remains of Brandon Grimshaw’s house and a small museum with seashells and explanations of the island’s flora and fauna are near the main beach, Jolly Roger. Grimshaw wrote about his life on the island in a book, A Grain of Sand.

Moyenne Cove

It was a perfect day. Even though I doused myself with SPF 50, I have a sunburned back from snorkeling – a small price to pay for an extraordinary memory. If my skin could tolerate the harsh equatorial sun, I would swim and snorkel every day. When the lovely day was over, I was sad to return to Mahé.

Sainte Anne Island
Aerial View Sainte Anne Marine Park