While exploring George Town, I’ve learned much about Malaysian history. The heritage zones are buzzing with activity, and attractions are packed with history and special significance. The unique architecture is a blend of British colonial and Chinese designs. Some of the attractions visited are summarized below. I’ve included links for details.
- Clan Jetties – floating Chinese villages dating back 100+ years
- Pinang Peranakan Mansion Museum – home of wealthy Chinese Immigrants a.k.a. Baba-Nyonya and Peranakan
- Street of Racial Harmony – melting pot for eclectic Malaysian culture and history
- Temple Kuan Yin Teng a.k.a. Goddess of Mercy Temple – Penang’s oldest temple built in 1728 by Chinese immigrants
- Masjid Kapitan Keling – 200-year-old mosque named after an Indian Muslim
- Sri Mahamariamman Temple – south-Indian style temple with carvings of gods and goddesses representing Islam, Taoism, Buddhism, Christianity, Hinduism
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Penang streetart incorporates objects that encourage visitor interaction.
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- Cheong Fatt Tze Blue Mansion – 19th century mansion turned boutique hotel built by Chinese merchant Cheong Fatt Tze reflecting Imperial Period architecture and Chinese Hakka and Teochew styles
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“The architecture of Penang reflects 171 years of British presence on the island, coalescing with local, Chinese, Indian, Islamic, and other elements to create a unique and distinctive brand of architecture.”
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- St. George’s Anglican Church – oldest Anglican church in South East Asia 19th century Georgian and neo-classical style architecture
- Fort Cornwallis – British Colonial architecture on the seaside esplanade where Penang founder, Captain Francis Light, landed in 1786
- Streetart – murals, sculptures, paintings depicting George Town history
- Highlands Street – Penang street food scene
- Saint George’s Anglican Church – oldest colonial Church in Southeast Asia constructed by Madras Engineers 1817-1818
- Jubilee Clock Tower – Moorish-style clocktower built commemorating Queen Victoria’s 1897 Diamond Jubilee damaged during WWII Japanese bombings
Audio Travel Guides
Touring Penang Island in the heat is challenging. It’s easier in the morning (8-11) or later in the day (6-9). Nighttime is lovely, with lights shining along the streets! I think using an audio guide is better than a human who quickly provides tons of verbal info that you probably can’t hear or understand and won’t remember. Audio guide apps have improved, and although they still aren’t perfect, are good.
Depending on where you’re staying, you may want to hire a driver, but parking in George Town is almost impossible. Walking around crowded, noisy streets is tricky, but the best option. I’ll be returning to the heritage zone on foot – possibly with an audio guide.
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“George Town Heritage Zones contain 5,013 buildings, including shophouse homes of long-time residents, and an eclectic mix of places of worship still functioning as they did hundreds of years ago.”
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Nine Malaysian Sultanates
Malaysia has thirteen states but “only nine have royal families, some can trace their roots to centuries-old independent Malay kingdoms“. The nine sultanates in Malaysia are constitutionally headed by traditional Malay rulers. State constitutions “limit eligibility for the throne to male Malay Muslims of royal descent“.
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On July 20, 2024, Sultan Ibrahim became Malaysia’s 17th King. Malaysia “practices a unique rotational form of monarchy“. Heads of the nine royal families “take turns being king for a five-year reign”. The “monarchy plays a largely ceremonial role, but has become more influential in recent years, due to prolonged political instability”. Reuters
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Sultans, Rajas, and Yang di-Pertuan Besar
Seven Malaysian states are “hereditary monarchies” – Kedah, Kelantan, Johor, Perlis, Pahang, Selangor, and Terengganu. In Perak, the “throne rotates among three branches of the royal family, loosely based on seniority”. One state, Negeri Sembilan, is an elective monarchy; where the ruler is elected from male members of the royal family by hereditary chiefs”.
Rulers, except those of Perlis and of Negeri Sembilan, use the title of Sultan. The ruler of Perlis is the Raja, and the ruler of Negeri Sembilan is known as the Yang di-Pertuan Besar.
Dengue Fogging
Malaysia practices “fogging” to “reduce adult mosquito populations” that spread dengue fever – a “viral infection that spreads from mosquitoes to people“. Considered a “short-term solution” for dengue prevention, fogging is “complemented by habitat mosquito removal”.
Last week a “notice” from the Malaysian government was placed under my apartment door announcing a scheduled dengue treatment. Penang doesn’t get as much rain as Kuching, where there were thunderstorms almost every evening. I noticed more mosquitos in Kuching.
It would be terrible to get dengue. Most people who get it don’t have symptoms. But those who do experience high fever, head and body aches, nausea, and rash. “Severe cases can be fatal,” and there’s no cure or specific treatment for dengue”. I didn’t suffer any noticeable side effects from the fogging.
Captain Francis Light
Captain Francis Light (1740–1794) was a British explorer and founder of the colony of Penang. Light was instrumental in the development of Penang Island. In 1765, he embarked on an East India Company ship for Madras and Bombay. In India, he took command of another ship and set up a base in Siam – now, Phuket Thailand.
As he explored adjoining areas, Light became interested in Penang, and in 1771, he proposed establishing a British settlement on the Malay Peninsula. In 1786, on behalf of the British East India Company, he leased Penang Island from Sultan Abdullah Mukarram Shah, for 6,000 Spanish dollars per annum. Light promised the Sultan military aid and protection from pirates and potential Burmese and Siamese invasions. He became superintendent in charge of the settlement.
New British Colony 1786
The new colony was described as a “vast jungle of nearly 107 square miles, with a sparse population of fifty-eight“. Pirates were deterred, forests cleared of timber, and George Town colony (named for King George III) was established. On 11 August 1786, Light invited the crews of two East India Company ships to attend declaration of the new colony of Prince of Wales Island – named on the eve of the Prince’s birthday.
The multicultural colony was “extraordinarily successful from its inception“. Light served as superintendent until his death in October 1794. He increased colony population from 58 to 20,000.
Francis Light Legacy
Light died from malaria in 1794. He was buried at the Old Protestant Cemetery in George Town – a UNESCO site. A bronze statue of Francis Light was erected at Fort Cornwallis in 1936, celebrating 150 years since George Town was founded. Light Street, in the George Town UNESCO World Heritage Site, is named after him.
Francis Light was respected by his British peers as a fair and honorable man and admired for his achievements. He had three daughters and two sons with Martinae Rozells, who was of Portuguese or French extraction on one side, and Siamese or Malay on the other.
D’sakra, Butterflies, Spices
One of the best parts of the tour was discovering D’sakra, an Indian restaurant, in the Little India section of George Town. The restaurant offers authentic, delicious Indian food with the best flavors and spices I’ve experienced! The service was phenomenal.
The next daytrips will be to Entopia Butterfly Farm and the Tropical Spice Garden. Both are on the other side of the island.