I joined a tour yesterday to explore Kazbegi in the Greater Caucasus Mountains – “one of Europe’s most impressive mountain ranges”. The area is historically important and an exceptionally beautiful part of Georgia. The places we experienced included:
- Zhinvali Reservoir – Mtskheta-Mtianeti region Aragvi River
- Georgian Military Highway – built by Soviets
- Ananuri Fortress – seat of 13th century feudal dynasty Eristavis of Aragvi
- Friendship Monument Georgians & Russians – celebrates Treaty of Georgievsk
- Kazbegi – “unique mountain destination” north of Jvari Pass to Russia
- Gergeti Trinity Church – iconic example of Georgian architecture
There were 17 in our group, from Canada, India, Belarus, Cyprus, Serbia, Netherlands, Estonia, France, and UK. I was the only American. The tour was led by our Georgian guide, Diana, of Vitis Travel and driver Nika. Diana lives in a village along our tour route. Many things happen during a fast-paced day tour, but It was a fulfilling, educational experience. There are countless ancient historical churches in Georgia – it’s almost dizzying! We departed at 9 a.m. and returned to Tbilisi around 7:30 p.m.
Zhinvali Reservoir
Our first stop, Zhinvali Reservoir, is in Mtskheta-Mtianeti region, an area “rich in ancient history, cultural monuments, and nature“. Located north of the town of Zhinvali in the middle of the Aragvi River, the Reservoir is surrounded by stunning vistas and considered one of the “most beautiful places in Georgia”. The Zhinvali Reservoir supplies Tbilisi with clean drinking water.
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“During construction of the Zhinvali hydroelectric complex, the 12th century Church of the Cross was flooded. Once located on a hill overlooking the city of Zhinvali, it’s now submerged in Zhinvali Reservoir. When water levels drop in winter, the church resurfaces and can be seen for several months.” Georgian Travel Guide
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Georgian Military Highway
Much of our trip followed the course of the Georgian Military Highway. It connects Tbilisi with the capital of North Ossetia in the Caucasus Mountains. The 129-mile-long highway has a storied past. It was built to “facilitate the entry of imperial troops after Russia annexed Georgia in the late 19th century“.
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“Russian control of the Georgian Military Highway was essential to victories in the Caucasian War (1817–1864) – the longest-running military conflict in Russian history – and establishing imperial control of the whole region.”
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Since the Bronze Age (2,000 BC – 700 BC), there’s been a route through the Aragvi and Terek Valleys, connecting the North and South Caucasus via Georgia. The route was called the Dariali Way, for it connection with Dariali Canyon. During the 18th century, the name was changed to the Georgian Military Road.
The road begins in Tbilisi and follows the Mtkvari River north to the Aragvi Valley. Then, it passes through the villages of Pasanauri and Mleta, continues over the Cross (Jvari) Pass to the villages of Kobi and Stepantsminda, and goes through the Daryali Gorge, ending in Vladikavkaz, capital of North Ossetia. During the Russo-Turkish wars in the 16th and 20th centuries, the Russian army invaded Georgia using the Military Highway.
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“Russia’s war in Ukraine stokes tensions in Georgia, and a
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During the Soviet era 1922-1991, a railway was built between Georgia and Russia. Afterwards, most road traffic was transferred to rails. Later In 1985, 2.5 mile Roki Tunnel was built through the Greater Caucasus Mountains. With construction of the tunnel and railway, the military road “lost economic significance“.
After Georgia’s independence in 1991, wars in the Abkhazia region led to the closure of the railway line and road to Abkhazia. In 1994, an armed conflict in Samakhablo region restricted traffic through Roki Tunnel. After the Georgian-Russian war in 2008, the tunnel was closed for repairs. It reopened in 2015.
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“Today, the only official link between Russia and Georgia is the Georgian Military Highway. Cars and lorries travelling to Russia from the neighboring countries of Azerbaijan, Armenia, Turkey, and Iran use this highway.”
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Georgia’s most photographed sights – Ananuri Fortress, the Georgian-Russian Friendship Monument, and Trinity Church of Gergeti are located along the Georgian Military Highway. An important gas pipeline – North Caucasus-Transcaucasia Gas Pipeline – runs along the highway from Russia through Georgia to Armenia. The Mozdok-Tbilisi segment of the pipeline within Georgian territory is called the North-South Gas Pipeline.
Ananuri Fortress
Ananuri Fortress dates from the 17th century. It was the seat of the Dukes (Eristavis) of Aragvi. A feudal dynasty, the Duchy of Aragvi (1619—1629), ruled the area from the 13th century. The fortress was the scene of numerous battles. Located along the Georgian Military Highway, on the shores of Aragvi River and Zhinvali Reservoir, the fortress includes a tower, circuit wall, porch, churches, and a bell-tower.
During the Middle Ages, Ananuri was strategically important, serving as a guardian along the routes that connected north and south Caucasus. The fortress remained in use until the early 19th century.
Members of the Dukes of Aragvi are buried in the Church of the Virgin. The Church of the Assumption, built in 1689, is the only church in the complex still open. It has facades with relief carvings featuring human, animal, and floral images. The interior contains the remains of frescoes from the 17th – 18th century. Wall paintings depict prominent ecclesiastical figures, like The Thirteen Assyrian Fathers.
The complex includes several churches – Church of the Virgin, Church of the Assumption, and Church Mkurnali (healer). The primary Church of the Virgin was built for the son of Duke Bardzem in 1689. It contains the remains of frescoes, mostly destroyed by fire in the 18th century.
The Church of the Assumption dates back to the 16th – 17th centuries and features the Georgian crossed-dome architectural structure. Notable within this church is the “baldaquin ceremonial stone, believed to have been erected by the widow of Edisher, an Aragvi duke from the 17th century“. The smallest church, Mkurnali, dates back to the 17th century.
In 1739, Ananuri was attacked by forces from a rival duchy – Shamshe – and the Aragvi clan was massacred. Four years later, local peasants “revolted against their new rulers, killed the usurpers, and invited King Teimuraz II of Kakheti to rule them“. The fortress remained in use until the 19th century. In 2007, Ananuri Fortress complex was added to the tentative list for inclusion into the UNESCO World Heritage program.
Friendship Monument of Georgians and Russians
The Russia-Georgia Friendship Monument, also known as the Treaty of Georgievsk Monument, is a historical landmark on the Georgian Military Highway. It’s near the village of Gudauri in Mtskheta-Mtianeti region. The monument was constructed in 1983 to commemorate the bicentennial of the Treaty of Georgievsk signed between the Russian Empire and the Georgian kingdom of Kartli-Kakheti in 1783.
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“The Treaty of Georgievsk (1783) was a bilateral treaty between Catherine the Great of Russia and Erekle II of the east Georgian Kingdom of Kartli-Kakheti. The treaty established eastern Georgia as a protectorate of Russia, guaranteeing it territorial integrity and the continuation of its reigning Bagrationi Dynasty, in return for prerogatives in the conduct of Georgian foreign affairs. Under the terms of the treaty, Catherine and her heirs were to defend Georgia against enemies, and Erekle renounced dependence upon Iran or any other power.
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The monument is “a round stone and concrete structure with seven large concrete columns” located in Devil’s Valley of the Caucasus Mountains. The columns “symbolize seven centuries of friendship between the Georgian and Russian people.” Panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and valleys are spectacular!
Located 75 miles from Tbilisi, the Friendship Monument has played a significant role in the history of Georgia. It witnessed the Soviet occupation of the country in the 20th century. Today, it stands as a symbol of friendship and reconciliation between the two nations. I found the monument extremely moving, but also sad, in view of the current tension between Georgia and Russia.
Kazbegi
Kazbegi National Park is considered a “one of kind destination” in the mountainous zone north of Jvari (Cross) Pass to the Russian border. It’s the closest mountainous area to Tbilisi. Kazbegi National Park is named after Mount Kazbegi – sixth highest peak in the Caucasus Mountains. The forest is rich in “mountain peaks, alpine pastures, spectacular gorges, and canyons carved from rock by the Tergi River“.
Kazbegi fauna includes “rare, endangered species on Georgia’s Red List. Animals include – brown bear, East Caucasian tur , lynx, chamois, and several birds of prey – golden eagle, Caucasian black grouse, Eurasian griffon vulture, Caucasian snowcock, and bearded vulture“. We saw eagles and vultures.
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“No list of magnificent European mountains is complete without the continent’s highest – Mount Elbrus! Mount Elbrus (18,500 ft.) is in the Caucasus Mountain wilderness on Russia’s border with Georgia.” Europcar
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The town of Stepantsminda – aka Kazbegi – with about 2,000 residents is the most populated part of the region. It’s surrounded by mountains on all sides. The town’s greatest attraction is Kazbegi Peak, also known as Mkinvartsveri, with magnificent panoramic views from 16,000 feet.
Gergeti Trinity Church
Our last stop, Gergeti Trinity Church, is “Georgia’s most iconic place of worship in the Greater Caucasus”. It’s in the Stepantsminda District, Mtskheta-Mtianeti region of eastern Georgia. The 14th century church is situated atop a hill at the base of Gergeti Glacier, with views of Stepantsminda and surrounding mountains. The Gergeti Trinity hike past the church to Gergeti Glacier supposedly takes “about 9 hours round-trip”.
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“Gergeti Trinity Church contains fascinating examples of 16th-century art, including depictions of the Mother of God, Saviour, John the Baptist, and Saint Nino. There are two unusual icons – Saavedra (bad weather) and Sadaro (good weather).”
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Gergeti Trinity Church is the crown of Stepantsminda, and an outstanding example of Georgian religious architecture. The cathedral was built during the 14th century and housed the church treasury. Ancient access to the church was difficult, but today, a steep winding paved road leads from Stepantsminda to Gergeti.
Like many Georgian churches, the two-story Gergeti Trinity Church is surrounded by a wall and contains a hidden second floor, where priests and parishioners hid during invasions. During the dangerous Middle Ages, the Cross of Saint Nino was hidden in the church, but now it resides in Sioni Church Tbilisi.
Still absorbing everything learned during this fascinating tour. I leave Georgia next week for Kuching Malaysia. More later…