Kakheti Wine Region Georgia

The Kakheti Wine Region tour was very educational. I joined an interesting, eclectic group of eighteen people from South Korea, Norway, The Netherlands, Uzbekistan, India, Philippines, Dubai, Brazil, and Abu Dhabi. I was the only American. All were fun and excellent company. The weather was glorious.

Winemaking is an inseparable part of Georgian identity and heritage. The tour emphasized the unique production techniques Georgians use, including full grape mash, versus juice only. Our guide told us that many families have small vineyards and produce homemade spirits like Chacha.

My favorite parts of the day were touring beautiful 9th century Bodbe Monastery of St. Nino and walking the ancient village of Sighnaghi. The terrain we explored had some of the most extraordinarily beautiful scenery I’ve seen in my travels!

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“Almost three-quarters of Georgia’s wine grapes are grown in the Kakheti Wine Region, on land used for viticulture for thousands of years.” wine-searcher

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Georgian wine is created from an astonishing 525 different varieties of endemic grapes. The wine is made in clay jars (qveri) that are buried underground for fermentation. In addition to wine, they make brandy and Chacha – Georgian vodka – a distinct local alcoholic beverage.

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“Chacha, a spirit and by-product of Georgian wine-making, is often over 70% ABV. Its unique production method has been intertwined in Georgian culture for over 1000 years. Chacha is crafted by distilling fermented grape skins, seeds, and stems left over after the winemaking process, maximizing the grape harvest, reducing waste, and creating a versatile and flavorsome spirit.” eatthistours.com

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“Enclosed in Bodbe Cathedral is the grave of St. Nino, a most remarkable female figure in the early history of Christianity.” World Monuments Fund

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Kakhetian

Kakheti Wine Region is an area renowned for “traditional Georgian wine production“. Kakheti’s “altitude, soil, and mild subtropical climate provide an ideal environment for grape growing and winemaking“. Our first stop was KTW Wine House, in the historical eastern village of Patardzeuli.

Every region of Georgia “grows its own grape varieties, creating wines with diverse tastes”. A few of the many famous Georgian wines include Tsinandali, Akhasheni, Saperavi, and Kindzmarauli.

KTW Wine House

KTW Wine House uses “traditional Georgian techniques mixed with state-of-the-art technology” in their wine production. Clay jars are buried in the ground for fermentation and to “guarantee an optimal temperature for wine aging and storage“. This clay jar wine-making process dates back 8000 years. It “ensures that the wines produced are rich in composition, with a distinctive taste and quality“.

Bodbe Monastery of St. Nino

Bodbe Monastery is an important spiritual and cultural site in the village of Bodbe. According to Georgian Orthodox tradition, “Saint Nino – a 4th-century evangelist who Christianized Georgia – settled in Bodbe and died there at the age of 31.”

Saint Nino came to Georgia from Cappadocia Turkey in the 4th century. She was “incredibly influential spreading Christianity to Georgia“, The first Christian king of Georgia, Mirian, built a church over her grave. Today, the Russian-European style church is known as Saint Nino Convent, where worshippers come to pay their respects. Approximately thirty self-sufficient nuns live at the monastery. They grow their food on the surrounding land. The monastic complex is located in Kakheti, next to Sighnaghi.

The nearby 9th century brick bell tower of St. George’s Church is part of the Bodbe monastic complex. Walls inside the church are decorated with breathtakingly beautiful frescoes.

There’s an observation deck behind the church with spectacular views of Alazani Valley. I can say without reservation that Bodbe Monastery and its grounds are among the most beautiful places I’ve visited.

Sighnaghi City of Love

Our last stop was Sighnaghi, a.k.a. the “City of Love”. The village dates back to the Bronze, Paleolithic, and  Neolithic Ages. “Picturesque Sighnaghi landscapes include pastel houses with balconies and narrow cobblestone streets”  – all are loved by tourists. We stopped at a small local winery and walked part of the fortress wall. Sighnaghi is located on a steep hill overlooking the Alazani Valley, with the Caucasus Mountains in the distance.

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“Sighnaghi is known as a “City of Lovers,” with a wedding house where one can marry anytime of the day.”

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Niko Pirosmani

The city park has a statue of Niko Pirosmani, a famous Georgian primitivist painter. Pirosmani was orphaned at a young age, and taught himself how to paint as a child. He created his own paint and painted directly onto black oil cloth. There are many interesting stories about him.

“During his lifetime, Pirosmani never saw monetary success or widespread fame, but he made enough money to supply himself with materials and create a prolific body of work. He’s now seen as an important contributor to the Russian avant-garde aka futurism, particularly the Neo-Primitivist and Rayonist movements.” I hope to see more of his unique work in local museums.

Sighnaghi’s Fortress Wall

The town is surrounded by the remnants of an 18th-century fortifications wall 4.5 kilometers (3 miles) long, with 23 watchtowers – the longest in Georgia. We walked part of the wall – views of Alazani Valley and the Caucasus Mountains are amazing!

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“The Georgian people overwhelmingly want to join the EU. But the law on foreign influence transparency goes against core principles and values of the EU, negatively impacting Georgia’s EU path. We’re considering all options and urge the government to recommit to EU aspirations.” Ursula von der Leyen, President of the European Commission May 28, 2024

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Tbilisi Demonstrations Continue

“Thousands of Georgians marched through Tbilisi on the country’s Independence Day, Sunday May 26, to continue their protests over the divisive law critics say will obstruct media freedom and damage the country’s bid to join the European Union. Large protests have repeatedly been held in the capital as the legislation made its way through parliament.” AP Production Sophiko Megrelidze

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“At 7:00 p.m. May 28, 2024, as the parliamentary majority overrode the Presidential veto and finally passed the Foreign Agents Law, thousands of demonstrators gathered near the Georgian Parliament Building. Rustaveli Avenue is blocked. Heavy police are mobilized. The Ministry of Internal Affairs (MIA) issued a statement calling on demonstrators to enable members of Parliament and employees of Parliament administration to leave the building without interruption. They said that any violation of the law would be immediately prevented by the police.” civil.ge

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More later…