Having time to move at your own pace is a plus when traveling abroad. Long-term travel provides time for adjusting to new environments, without feeling pressed to see everything at once. I’ve been low-key for a few days getting my bearings, but am getting up to speed and expanding my Georgian horizons.
Transportation
Purchasing a Metromoney card seemed a small thing, but between the Metro and local apps for inexpensive taxis, the freedom to explore Tbilisi and surrounding areas is endless. The Metro system operates from 6 a.m. until midnight and includes buses, cable cars, and soviet-style underground trains. It’s a highly functional system with a fascinating, colorful history.
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“Inaugurated in 1966, Tbilisi Metro was the fourth underground system built in the former Soviet Union. Under Soviet government, when a city’s population exceeded a million, a state-sponsored mass rapid transit system was gifted to the people.” Wander-Lush
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History
From Prehistoric times, before the 4th century Kingdom of Iberia, to present times, Georgian history is extremely complicated. I’m still learning but can now recognize some of the unique faces of South Caucasus – Georgia, Azerbaijan, and Armenia.
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“In their native language, Georgians have always called their country Sakartvelo, and they still do. The root ‘Kartvel’ refers to the self-name of Georgians, and the prefixes and suffixes imply ‘the area where the Kartvels live’.”
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Independence Day Celebration and Demonstrations
Liberty Square near my apartment has been cordoned off and transformed for an Independence Day Celebration this weekend. Police are stationed on almost every corner. The US Embassy notified US citizens of Tbilisi demonstrations occurring over the weekend. Demonstrations began Friday night, and as I was coming back to my apartment, I got caught up in a large but peaceful crowd. The streets were overflowing with people for as far as the eye could see.
Speeches began early this morning, followed by Georgian opera singers, marching bands, helicopters, and jets flying overhead streaming national colors. The noise was a bit startling, and it frightened the birds.
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“Recently, Georgia has been engulfed by huge protests triggered by a proposed law that critics see as a threat to media freedom and the country’s aspirations to join the European Union.” AP News
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The people continue to protest Georgian Parliament’s passage of the Foreign Influence Bill. The bill was vetoed by Georgian President Salome Zourabichvili, but according to the constitution, the ruling majority in Parliament can override a president’s veto.
The bill requires media, NGOs, and other non-profits to declare themselves as “pursuing the interests of a foreign power, if they’re more than 20% funded from outside Georgia“. Many Georgians think the bill is a “threat to domestic freedom and the country’s aspirations to join the European Union“. They have “drawn comparisons with rules introduced in Russia“. Georgians hold their freedom dearly, and at this point, no one really knows what will happen. At best, Russia-Georgia relations are “strained and turbulent”.
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“The Caucasus are sometimes called ‘lands in between’. Geographically, they’re countries between Europe, Asia, Russia, and the Middle East. Culturally, they’re on the border where Islam meets Christianity, and democracy meets authoritarianism.” Thomas de Waal Carnegie Europe
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May 26 Georgia Independence Day
Georgia Independence Day is a public holiday celebrated annually on May 26th. It’s also known as the “Day of the First Republic” and “marks the 1918 adoption of the Act of Independence“. Celebrations include political speeches and ceremonies, flag hoisting, concerts, fairs, exhibitions, and other public events celebrating Georgian history and culture.”
After Georgia became part of the Soviet Union in 1922, “celebrations of regional public holidays were suppressed“. In 1991, with the collapse of the Soviet regime, independence day “regained public holiday status.”
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“In the chaotic aftermath of the Russian Revolution of 1917, Georgia was annexed by the Russian Empire. On 26 May 1918, Georgia declared itself an independent Democratic Republic.”
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April 9th National Unity Day of Georgia
“From the 1800s to 1991, Georgia was part of the Russian Empire. After the Russian Revolution of 1917 and Russia’s defeat in WWI, Georgia pushed for independence. On April 9th 1991, Georgia seceded from the Soviet Union. That date – National Unity Day of Georgia – is celebrated as a public holiday.”
On April 9, 1989, “Soviet troops brutally suppressed a peaceful demonstration in Tbilisi”. Twenty-one people died. The tragic event was a “pivotal moment that persuaded Georgians to break with the Soviet Union“. It “discredited the Communist Party of Georgia and propelled the nationalist opposition to power in Georgia’s first free elections“.
Tbilisi Walking Tour
Yesterday, I joined a Tbilisi walking tour, led by Gamarjoba Georgia Tours – the word gamarjoba means hello. We walked areas that highlight the city’s ancient history and are home to Tbilisi’s major attractions. Some of the places visited are described below. As usual, the guide shared a massive amount of detailed information – too much for my brain to absorb. I often say that about tours, because it’s literally always the case. Tours help in the process of understanding a foreign country’s history and culture, but the amount of detailed information provided quickly is almost always overwhelming. To get the most from a tour, you need to do your own homework before and after.
The group included an Egyptian orthopedic surgeon and his wife living in Kuwait, two Australian sisters and their father, an Iraqi, a Jordanian, and an American from Maine and her French boyfriend living in Paris. The interesting people were great company. For a few days, the weather has been overcast and rainy, providing a dramatic background for viewing the city but making photography difficult. When the weather improves – it’s pouring again today – I’ll return to some of the places visited and take better photos.
Churches and Monuments
It was a fast-moving day visiting major attractions located in the heart of Tbilisi. There are many statues and monuments in the city, remembering the details of each one is challenging.
Metekhi Church
Out first stop was Metekhi Church of the Nativity of the Virgin Mary in Metekhi district on the left bank of the Mtkvari River. A “13th-century architectural gem,” the church is one of the oldest in Tbilisi. King Vakhtang Gorgasali erected a church, castle, and palace in the area. The temple symbolizes the temple of the Virgin Mary in the Garden of Gethsemane in Jerusalem.
The tomb of St. Shushanik lies inside the temple’s main sanctuary. It was moved there in the 7th century, after the “ecclesiastical split between Armenians and Georgians”. Devout Shushanik was the wife of Iranian Prince Varsken, ruler of Hereti.
According to legend, Metekhi rock was the place where Abo, the patron saint of Tbilisi, was tortured. In the 6th century. A small church was built at the foot of the rock to honor him.
Monument of Vakhtang Gorgasali
The bronze Statue of King Vakhtang Gorgasali stands on the cliffs overlooking Metekhi Church. King Gorgasali was the founder of Tbilisi, and his statue is an “iconic landmark symbolizing Georgian history and spirit”. He reigned from 447 to 502 AD and played a major role in cultural and religious development.
According to legend, “King Vakhtang I Gorgasali, once hunted in the forests near the first capital of Georgia – Mtskheta – where he shot a pheasant. The king sent his falcon to find the prey, but lost sight of the bird. In search of the birds, Vakhtang came upon the source of hot springs and saw that both the falcon and the pheasant got into the waters. Amazed with this find and realizing the advantage of the location, Vakhtang founded a city.
Unveiled in 1967, the statue was created by Georgian sculptor Elguja Amashukeli. It depicts King Gorgasali astride a majestic horse, “exuding power and determination, reflecting the king’s strong character and leadership”. Panoramic views of the city and the Mtkvari River are spectacular from this location.
Mother of Georgia
The Mother of Georgia – Kartlis Deda – monument is on top of Sololaki Hill next to Narikala Fortress. Sololaki is one of the “oldest and most cultural parts of Tbilisi, with magical old houses and beautiful doors and balconies“.
The statue was erected in 1958, the year Tbilisi celebrated its 1500th anniversary. Georgian sculptor Elguja Amashukeli designed the twenty-meter (65 foot) aluminum figure. The statue symbolizes Georgian national character. In her “left hand she holds a bowl of wine to greet those who come as friends, and in her right hand a sword for those who come as enemies”.
The Mother of Georgia reflects the “enduring spirit of the Georgian people and their determination to celebrate and preserve their unique identity”. Views from this statue are also incredible, including the Tbilisi Botanical Garden below.
Narikala Fortress
Narikala Fortress is one of the most visited places in Tbilisi. Sadly, it’s under construction and closed until next year. The fortress is especially stunning at night. It overlooks the Mtkvari River and “consists of two walled sections between the sulphur baths and Botanical Gardens“. Views of Old Town from Narikala Fortress are breathtaking.
The earliest walls date from the 4th century, when the fortress was a Persian citadel. The “present walls were built in the 8th century by Arab emirs, whose palace was inside the fortress”. Although the fortress is closed for construction, cable cars can take you up for a closer view.
We stopped at St. Nicholas Church, a little monastery in the hills around Narikala. The church is decorated with frescos depicting scenes from the Bible and Georgian history.
Sulfur Baths District
The Sulfur Baths are located in Tbilisi’s unique Abanotubani neighborhood. Abanotubani means “bath district”. It’s an ancient part of Tbilisi, known for famous brick sulfur bathhouses. The sulfur baths have “countless health benefits and are a great way to relax”. A visit is definitely on my agenda.
The bathhouses were inspired by “traditional Persian-style baths”. The water in Tbilisi comes from the ground naturally hot, and isn’t manually heated.
“Most bathhouses offer public and private rooms, with the latter obviously more expensive. Inside the rooms you can be naked or in your swimwear, whichever makes you more comfortable.”
Cable Car
Rike Park Cable Cars accommodate eight passengers and remind me of ski gondolas. The rainy weather significantly inhibited views of the Mtkvari River, terracotta rooftops, Metekhi Church, and other city interesting vistas. My Metro ticket includes cable cars, so I plan to ride them often.
A notable feature of Rike Park is the Bridge of Peace, a “stunning pedestrian bridge that spans the Mtkvari River and connects the park to the historic district of Old Tbilisi“. The bridge is a “marvel of modern design, featuring a unique wave-like structure illuminated by thousands of LED lights at night”.
Shardeni Street
Shardeni Street is a small “walking street” in Tbilisi. Located in the Upper Kala district between Vakhtang Gorgasali square and Sioni Street. It’s a center of Tbilisi cultural and social life. There are art galleries, salons of “vitreous enamel” and other handmade items, bars, and restaurants. It’s one of the most popular places in Tbilisi for both tourists and locals.
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Throughout a Georgian meal, toasts are made by the Tamada, or toastmaster, who can raise a glass to anything from the environment, to religion, to the future.
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A small square at the beginning of Shardeni Street has a bronze statue of Tamada (toastmaster). The statue is a copy of the VII century BC sculpture found in the ancient settlement of Vani.
Sioni Cathedral
Tbilisi Sioni Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary is a monument of Georgian architecture. The cross-domed temple is on the right bank of the Mtkvari River in Old Tbilisi. It. has special historical significance and contains several distinctive icons of the Georgian Church. The Sioni Complex includes a fence, the Cathedral of the Assumption, and two bell towers. The largest sanctuary of the Georgian Orthodox Church – St. Nino’s Cross – is located there.
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“After the establishment of the Soviet government, churches were deprived of their property, including the bells of Sioni Cathedral”.
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“The name Sioni is derived from the name of a sacred mountain in Jerusalem. It’s a Hebrew word meaning ‘sunny’. Many churches are named after Sioni. All of them are named after the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary.”
The temple houses a “miraculous stone of grace” brought from Jerusalem by St. David of Gareja. The bodies of apostles, bishops, poets, and martyrs are buried there.
Clock Tower Puppet Theatre
The unique Clock Tower Puppet Theatre was built In 2010 by artist Rezo Gabriadze. It’s next to the marionette theatre in Old Town. There’s a small puppet theatre inside the tower, and twice a day – noon and 7 p.m. – you can see a show. Rezo “decorated the tower with hundreds of tiles he designed himself”. The Clock Tower is a major architectural attraction in Tbilisi.
Anchiskhati Basilica
Anchiskhati Basilica of St. Mary is the oldest church in Tbilisi. It was built in the 6th century by the King of Iberia, Dachi Ujarmelil.
“The name literally means Anchi’s Savior Icon and has a long backstory that says a lot about Georgia. The church was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, but renamed in 1675.”
The icon of Christ was moved from Ancha Monastery in Klarjeti to Turkey to protect it from Ottoman invasions. The icon is “one of the greatest and oldest relics in Georgia“. It was preserved at the Basilica until the 19th century, when it was moved. It now resides in the Art Museum of Georgia.
Between the 16th and 17th centuries, the church was rebuilt several times, due to wars with the Persians and the Turks. During the 19th century, the church underwent further drastic changes.
During the Soviet period and cessation of religious ceremonies, the church was “used as a museum for handcrafts and an art studio“. With the collapse of the Soviet Union In 1991, Georgia regained its independence, and the basilica was restored to a place of worship.
Bridge of Peace
The Bridge of Peace over the Mtkvari River was designed by renowned Italian architect Michele De Lucch. It’s a “symbol of Tbilisi’s modernity and connectivity”. The bridge opened in 2010, and is adorned with thousands of LED lights illuminating the skyline at night.
The bridge was designed to blend with its ancient historical surroundings, “integrating old and new“. Views from the bridge are stunning, especially at night! The bridge “symbolizes the unity and harmony sought by the people of Tbilisi”.
Leghvtakhevi Waterfall
We weren’t to visit the Leghvtakhevi Waterfall, since it’s closed for reconstruction. The 22 meters (72 feet) tall waterfall is in Leghvtakhevi Canyon near Abanotubani. The peaceful canyon is a popular hiking spot surrounded by lush greenery and cliffs.
It was a long but fulfilling day of learning about Tbilisi’s fascinating history!
WOW!