The tour of Humboldt Penguin Reserve yesterday was amazing! Even though it was overcast along the coast, we saw an unbelievable number of animals! Our group of 16 was eclectic with seven Germans, a woman from the Netherlands, a Peruvian couple, a Colombian, four Chileans, and me. English commentary from our Chilean guide, Jorge, was excellent.
The drive from La Serena north to the isolated fishing village of Punta de Choros took two hours each way. The desert route was over rough, rocky backroads. Four-wheel drive was essential.
Three small islands – Chañaral, Damas, and Choros – form the natural complex known as Humboldt Penguin National Reserve. The location is stunning with radiant turquoise water, white-sand beaches, caves, unusual rock formations, a variety of animals and exotic birds, and interesting indigenous vegetation.
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“Established in 1990, the reserve is made up of 888.68 hectares, divided into the Choros, Damas, and Chañaral islands. The latter is also known as Gaviota cocinera. The first two islands are in La Higuera (Coquimbo Region) and the third Freirina (Atacama Region), making it a Chilean area of bi-regional character.” Chile Travel
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We were fortunate to see gray whales, sea lions, sea otters, bottlenose dolphins, penguins, pelicans, albatross, cormorants, Chilla gray foxes, and sea and shore birds I’ve never seen before. Sadly we didn’t see many Humboldt penguins. It’s the beginning of their breeding season so they’re off and busy preparing nests.
The day started with a surprise gray whale citing that lasted about 30 minutes. I was on the wrong side of the boat for photos, and there were many people blocking the view. Later there were so many dolphins – maybe a 100+ – I couldn’t keep track! They enjoyed racing in the wake of our engine, and the boat captain knew what to do to get them to play!
The graceful dolphins were fast and made the sweetest sounds as they came close to our boat. Their most magnificent antics were when two or three of them jumped in the air together in tandem. We literally squealed with delight as they kept coming back and repeating their incredible acrobatic performances!
I have new appreciation for animal photographers, as getting photos of the quick-moving dolphins in action was difficult. My reflexes weren’t fast enough, and frankly I was awe-struck seeing dolphins closeup in their natural environment.
On the way back to the harbor, we stopped at Isla Damas, the only island that allows tourists. We hiked around the island, enjoyed beaches, and admired the unique Chilean vegetation.
Chile’s National Forest Service manages admissions and protects the reserve. To safeguard the island’s ecosystem, tours are limited and only permitted at certain times of day. Before heading back to Las Serena, we had late lunch at a local restaurant along the coast. To add to the day’s incredible animal sightings, we spotted a few guanacos and a family of grey foxes in the coastal bush. The outing was a satisfying experience!
Very envious of you seeing whales, dolphins, sea lions, penguins, etc. all in one day! The pelicans are so cute!