The daytrip to Mtskheta, Jvari Monastery, and Svetistkhoveli Cathedral was very educational. The historical area in central-eastern Georgia is wrapped in a peaceful environment of lush greenery and expansive mountain vistas. It’s located 12 miles north of Tbilisi at the confluence of the Mtkvari and Aragvi Rivers. Mtskheta is home to several UNESCO World Heritage sites in the Caucasus Region. These ancient areas are considered “outstanding examples of medieval religious architecture “.
There were five in our tour group, a young couple from India, two guys from Israel, and me. They were all great company and fluent in English, so I totally enjoyed chatting with them. Our guide, Madi with Budget Friendly Tours, is a native Georgian educated in England. She did an exceptional job talking us through the complicated religious history of an area that once was “capital of the Iberian kingdom of Georgia“.
Mtskheta
Mtskheta history “dates as far back as the 11th millennium BC“. Cathedrals in Georgia’s Old Capital City “illustrate the high artistic and cultural level attained by this ancient kingdom”.
“Mtskheta was the capital of Kartli, the East Georgian Kingdom from the 3rd century BC to 5th century AD. It’s one of the most important geographical areas in Georgian history. In 337, Kartli is where Christianity was proclaimed as Georgia’s official religion. It remains the headquarters of the Georgian Orthodox and Apostolic Church.” Today, Kartli is known for its vineyards and wine production.
Mtskheta’s key medieval monuments include the Holy Cross Monastery of Jvari, Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, and Samtavro Monastery. We didn’t visit Samtavro Monastery. The monasteries and cathedrals include the remains of earlier buildings and ancient wall paintings created on these sites thousands of years ago.
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“Mtskheta’s location at the intersection of trade routes used by the Roman, Persian, Syrian, Palestinian, and Byzantium empires, led to the integration of different cultural influences in Georgia. After the 6th century AD, the capital was transferred to Tbilisi, but Mtskheta continues to retain its leading role as one of the important cultural and spiritual centres of the country.” UNESCO
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Holy Cross Monastery of Jvari
Our first stop – Jvari Monastery a half-century-old monument – is where “St. Nino erected a cross that played a crucial role in Georgian Christianity during the 4th century”. It “symbolizes the fall of paganism and rise of Christianity in Georgia.” Jvari dates back to the 6th century AD and is “one of the most iconic monasteries in Georgia“.
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“Jvari is a typical example of a tetraconch – an archaic type of church planning and construction. The round shape, four apses, and four niches are its main remarkable features.” Georgia Travel
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Situated on a mountain top, Jvari is Georgia’s first and oldest monastery. Javari Cathedral of the Holy Cross has walls “decorated with Asomtavruli script – some of the earliest examples of the written Georgian language“. The frescoes tell the story of the king who built Javari – Stepanoz I King of Iberia. They depict the king, his wife, Queen Nana Consort of Iberia, and their family.
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“Georgia is one of the world’s oldest countries. For centuries, it has preserved natural and cultural sites that retain their authenticity to this day.” caucasustrip.com
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Jvari Monastery was Georgia’s first nomination on the UNESCO World Heritage list. The monastery started the trend of building crossed-dome churches in Georgia. The name Javari is translated from Georgian as “the cross”. The monastery has its own interesting history, and there are many stories about it and St. Nino, “enlightener of Georgia and revered saint who converted Georgia to Christianity”. St. Nino’s sacred cross is kept at Javari Monastery.
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“For one and a half thousand years, Jvari Monastery went through a long journey experiencing hardships and difficulties. It became a symbol of faith for the people of Georgia.”
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Svetitskhoveli Cathedral
Svetitskhoveli Cathedral is the largest surviving historical church built in Georgia. The cathedral has been the religious center of Christian Georgia for centuries. Known as a “masterpiece of XI century medieval Georgian architecture” and “Mother Cathedral of Georgia,” Svetitskhoveli is the “patriarchal temple of the Georgian Orthodox Church“. It houses the relics of important Christian saints and Georgian Kings, including the grave of Mirian, the first Georgian king to adopt Christianity.
Built in 1010-1029 under the leadership of the Catholicos Patriarch Melkisedek, the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral complex includes a church, palace, and the gates of the Katholikos Melchizedek. It dates from the 11th century and is built on the site of earlier churches dating back to the 5th century. On the advice of St. Nino, Georgia’s first Christian King – Mirian III – built the cathedral. It’s been damaged by earthquakes and invaders and renovated many times. A large part of the old frescoes were destroyed, and the walls whitewashed, but the cathedral “still leaves a glorious impression today“.
Svetitskhoveli is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The name Svetitskhoveli is translated as a “life-giving pillar,”. and is the “most frequently visited place in Georgia”.
Christ’s Robe
Svetitskhoveli Cathedral was the main pilgrimage site on the Great Silk Road, It’s the burial place of Christ’s Robe. The robe is believed to “lie beneath the central nave, under a square pillar decorated with colourful but faded frescoes of the conversion of the Kingdom of Kartli“. The story goes that a Mtskheta Jew, Elioz, was in Jerusalem at the time of Jesus’ crucifixion, and he returned to Mtskheta with the robe.
“According to Georgian hagiography, in the 1st century AD, a Georgian Jew from Mtskheta named Elias was visiting Jerusalem when Jesus was crucified. He bought Jesus’ robe from a Roman soldier and brought it back to Georgia. Returning to his native city, he was met by his sister, Sidonia, who, upon touching the Robe, immediately died from the emotions generated by the sacred object. The Robe could not be removed from her dead hands, so she was buried with it.”
Georgian weather has been a bit weird the last few days, but supposedly typical for spring. The day began with gorgeous blue skies, and without much warning, the skies turned black and ended up in a torrential downpour. I have a local SIM card and got a text notification to be aware of severe weather the next few days. There’s been flooding in Armenia and some parts of Georgia, like Batumi on the Black Sea.
It was another fascinating day in Georgia…
Fascinating! დ