Pozzallo – a sleepy Sicilian village on the Mediterranean Sea – is as “Italian / Sicilian” as it gets! I arrived Monday after flights from Belgrade to Munich and Munich to Catania, followed by a 1.5-hour bus ride from Catania to Pozzallo. There were challenges during the trip, which I won’t belabor in this post.
Italiano or Siciliano?
After a few days, it’s clear that not much English is spoken in Pozzallo. Even local cats (gattu) don’t understand it :o). I visited Rome in 2017, so it’s been a few years since last speaking (or trying to speak) the Italian language, not the same as Sicilian. I’m starting each day with 15 -30 minutes on Babbel, hoping it helps.
Considered its own language, Sicilian is a “distinct and historical Romance language of the Italo-Dalmatian family“. Many Sicilian words are of “Greek origin influenced by Norman, Arabic, Catalan, Spanish, and other languages”.
My landlord – Saro – speaks English, but when his eyes go blank, it’s clear he doesn’t understand. Most locals are patient, but after a poor pronunciation there’s usually a good-hearted boffola followed by a correction and usually a smile. Europeans appreciate even imperfect attempts to speak their language.
It’s interesting to note how patient (or not) countries are with tourists and foreigners. I’ve learned it’s unrealistic to expect locals to understand how it is to be new to a place, learning everything from directions to local customs and food. I think the only way someone can relate is by experiencing it themselves – this usually makes everyone a little MORE humble.
Some days are a test of survival. Travel isn’t all fun – maybe with an entourage and someone doing the hard work for you… If you hadn’t guessed, I’m experiencing long-term travel stress…
I had lunch yesterday at a café along the promenade where locals eat. I sat at a window table, and soon, 5 or 6 Italian guys (regulars for sure) piled in and joined me. They probably figured I wasn’t Italian and didn’t speak their language… I jokingly said “ciao” when leaving. Thankfully, I got smiles (instead of laughs) all around – probably because they figured it was the only Italian word I knew…
Meals and Riposo
Time has new meaning in Pozzallo – a massive change from fast-paced Belgrade! In Belgrade lunch begins around 2 pm. Food is available whenever you’re hungry, but you’re likely to get a funny look if you order early lunch in a restaurant.
In Pozzallo, lunch is between 11 and 1 and everything closes for riposo from 1 until 4…. Dinner is after 8. Most gelato shops stay open all day, even during siesta, and locals start flocking there around 4 pm.
Fish, Food, New Apartment
Pozzallo is a fishing village of about 20,000 with a commercial port and “ancient nautical traditions”. It’s a popular seaside resort for Italians, but few tourists from other countries know about it. If you’re not fluent in Italian, the language barrier is challenging, but definitely adds to the adventure.
You can buy fresh fish directly from fishermen coming back to the harbor in the morning. There are fish shops everywhere, and it’s super clean and pink – zero fishy smell. Fresh vegetables and cheese are also great.
This is my sixth kitchen since I began traveling in October, and each one had a unique stove, pots, and cooking utensils. This Italian kitchen has a gas stove hooked to a propane tank. You turn on the gas and then use a match or lighter to start the burners – this process is new to me! I’m getting better at it, and hopefully won’t burn myself or singe my eyebrows while lighting the stove :o). I forget to turn the propane off last night… The Italian mocha pot makes fantastic espresso.
High tourist season begins in June, so I’m an early arrival. My apartment is roomy and comfortable with beautiful knotty pine floors, doors, and closets. It has a wrap-around deck and a sea view. A walk to the promenade takes a few minutes. Saro also has a high-end villa on the coast that he rents for 250€ / night. It has a pool, sleeps 7 to 8, and looks beautiful.
There are a few problems with my apartment that Saro is addressing – slowly. Like kitchens, this is my 6th landlord – enough said… Pozzallo Internet is slow, and I haven’t been able to download many photos – succeeded with a few. Not sure why some download and others don’t – probably the size.
Ferries, Catamarans, Tours
For the time being, I’m content not renting a car. Anything you might need or want is within walking distance. Pozzallo has ferries and catamarans to Valletta Malta, Catania, and other points along the Sicilian coast. Buses are inexpensive and easy for exploring nearby Sicilian villages. I may rent a bicycle and will take a few group walking tours. For now, I’m acclimating. Nearby places of interest include:
Weather is mild in the 60s – 70s. Since Pozzallo is on the coast, early spring is windy and bone-chilling cold at night. Storms clear almost as quickly as they come. It’s raining today, with a series of major storms on the way, including wild thunder and lightening.
Beaches and Environment
The FEE (Foundation for Environmental Education) awarded Pozzallo four Blue Flag beaches. Qualifying beaches meet “strict criteria for water quality, environmental education, management, and safety”. Sicily has eight Blue Flag beaches.
Pozzallo’s recycling procedure is formidable. The Italian instructions describe preparation and pickup days for organic waste, glass, plastics, and rubbish. Sorting recycle containers and determining the correct day for each pickup is confusing. I learned to watch what others put out and follow their lead.
Torre Cabrera
My apartment near the beach is on Via Carlo Pisacane. The ancient tower in the heart of Pozzallo, is nearby. It was part of a fifteenth century coastal defense system built to protect Pozzallo from pirates. The complex includes piers, warehouses, and ship-loading equipment.
Lido Isola Verde
Lido Isola Verde, a promenade Beach Club, provides loungers and umbrellas for beach bums, surfers, sunbathers, and swimmers. There’s also a picnic area and a small bar. It’s off season, so no one is there now :o) – it’s a great place to ponder the sea. I walked there today, and the surf was wild!
Piazza della Rimembranza
Piazza della Rimembranza is in Pozzallo’s city center. Gorgeous buildings line the uncrowded streets. I’m still exploring the piazza and side streets
Spiaggia Pietrenere
Spiaggia Pietrenere, a narrow beach hugging the waterfront, is a scenic 7-mile walk from Pozzallo to Santa Maria di Focallo. The easy walk is on my “to do” list a few times each week. The firm golden sand is great for walking and shoreline surf is shallow.
Pozzallo is all about the sea! I’ll be here through April. Addio – più tardi…
That’s wonderful and succinct information.
Now you are close to my late father’s birthplace of Caltagirone. He left there in 1952 and made Australia his home. As he didn’t raise me, I didn’t learn Italian until I went there in the late 1970s. You will have already realised the Sicilian dialect is a completely different beast, but everyone would also speak “high” Italian. Pozzallo looks beautiful, and you’re right – not a place I had heard of before, even though Bill and I had a week’s tour in Sicily about six years back. The blog posts start here if you are looking for ideas. https://garrulousgwendoline.wordpress.com/2013/06/14/buenos-dias-al-todo-mondo-sicily/
As always, am envious of the luxury of your longer stay, although I also realise the challenges of getting settled in your solo journey. All the best for a successful stay!
Thanks Gwen – it’s beautiful but different here – each leg of the trip has been unique. I was considering Malta or Cyprus next but decided to head for Cape Town (a familiar place!) and save them for the next adventure. Honestly having been in 6 countries since October – my brain is on overload. Trying to figure out Pozzallo transportation (other than by foot) and nearby tours which are more complicated than being in a city. It’s a relaxing place :). Miss Belgrade more than I thought – surprise, surprise… Thanks for sharing your posts!