I’ve been exploring Sarajevo on my own, but joined a guided walking tour today. We walked several hours mostly covering territory in Old Town.
Meet Bosnia Travel
Several Bosnians started the tour group – Meet Bosnia – a few years ago, and they’re clearly passionate about their city. The tour was rich with history and stories. The office in Old Town is at the corner of Gazi Husrev-Begova and Mula Mustafa Baseskija Streets. With its jewelry shops, Gazi Husrev-Begova is also known as Zlatarska – Goldsmith’s Street. Mula Mustafa Baseskija is near the Eternal Fire, a monument to Sarajevo’s liberation in World War II.
Baščaršija Square – Churches, Fountains, Mosques
The tour started at Baščaršija Square, the “lively core of Old Town” and home to Sarajevo’s oldest streets and most notable landmarks. Except for churches and temples next to mosques, the area is like a scene from Istanbul. We walked by the Old Orthodox Church dedicated to Archangels Michael and Gabriel. Built in the 16 century, it has suffered from fire and destruction, but was repeatedly rebuilt.
We paused at Sebilj, a famous wooden fountain on Baščaršija Square. It’s a local legend that if you drink water from the fountain, you’ll return to Sarajevo.
We passed Gazi Husrev-Bey Mosque, a building from the 1500s considered Sarajevo’s “most important architectural monument from Ottoman rule”. We walked through the Bezistan, Sarajevo’s oldest shopping area. It’s near the 16th century Clock Tower which has an unusual clock that keeps lunar time. The clock indicates the five times for daily Islam prayer at dawn, noon, afternoon, sunset, and night. With the lunar system, “the day begins at sunset and the time shown is 12:00”.
Sarajevo City Hall
Everyone admired beautiful Sarajevo City Hall (Vijećnica), the most recognizable Austro-Hungarian building in Bosnia. It was the National and University Library and seat of Sarajevo’s City Council. Today it’s a popular venue for Sarajevo’s major exhibitions and concerts.
Isa Begov Hamam
We passed Isa Beg Hamam in Isa Begov Hamam Hotel. It’s one of two hammams in Sarajevo. The hammam is named after Isa Beg Ishakovich, a successful Ottoman General and the Beg (Governor) of Bosnia Sandzak. Ishakovich is known as the founder of Sarajevo.
I’ve enjoyed a few invigorating Turkish hamams. Visiting Isa Beg’s Hamam is on my list of things to do before leaving Sarajevo. I’ve never felt so clean, relaxed, and refreshed as after the hamam process! This blog post explains my experience in Istanbul.
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“The main idea of the Hamam is to use steam and hot water to cleanse the body and create a sensual relaxing.”
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Sarajevo Diversity
Our guide highlighted Sarajevo’s exceptional diversity and the mutual respect among Catholic, Orthodox, Jewish, and Islam religions. Sarajevo’s Jewish community has existed for almost five centuries. The Old Jewish Temple is within walking distance of churches and mosques. Today it’s a Balkan museum.
Meeting of Cultures and Roses
We stopped on Ferhadija Street at the “Sarajevo Meeting of Cultures” point – a location tied to the Habsburg Monarchy. The Cathedral of Jesus’ Sacred Heart with a statue of Pope John Paul II is one of many iconic buildings on Ferhadija. Toward the eastern end, a marker shows the exact spot where “East literally meets West”.
Our guide talked about Sarajevo Roses, “craters left by fatal mortar strikes that were filled with red resin to remember those lost during the Siege of Sarajevo”.
Bosnian Food
The group listened to pointers on restaurants, cafés, and the best places for local cuisine like ćevapi and burek. Coffee is a very important part of Bosnian culture. Drinking the special strong brew – never to be mistaken for Turkish coffee – is a must. As you drink Bosnian coffee, you must linger and enjoy the time with your companions.
Latin Bridge, Ferdinand’s Assassination
We walked across Latin Bridge and stopped at the site of Franz-Ferdinand˙s Assassination. The story of the nearly botched assassination is fascinating.
It was an extraordinarily beautiful clear day with temperatures in the high 40s. I’m smitten with Bosnia. Since the weather forecast is good, I’ll take full-day tours tomorrow and Wednesday:
- Herzegovina – Konjic, Počitelj, Blagaj, Mostar
- Jajce and Travnik
The city hall was still being rebuilt when we were there, after having been one of the first targets of the war. An interesting novel to read which features the Sarajevo Haggadah, which was really rescued from there, is “People of the Book” by Geraldine Brook. Sarajevo Roses were everywhere, but we were told that they were gradually being covered over as people were attempting to get on with their lives. And the Srebinica museum is well worth a visit. At least half a day and longer depending on your interest. And if you want to understand even more of what the Sarajevans suffered during the siege, I can recommend the “Times of Misfortune” tour.
Lightening up . . . We did a lovely afternoon trip out to the Springs of Bosne (Vrlo Bosne). Take the tram to Ilidza. It runs along that main road that the Latin Bridge crosses. Then it’s about 5km/3 mi walk up to the springs, or you can take a horse and carriage. There’s a cafe up there. Very pretty parklands.
My apartment is along the Miljacka River very close to Latin Bridge and I did take the #3 trolley to Ilidža but haven’t had time to write about it. Also rode the Aerial cable car and then stopped in at a small “war” museum on the way down the hill. It was an unbelievable replication of how the people actually lived underground during the siege. The man who gave the tour lived in the bunker with his family and provided vivid descriptions of that life. They were tough, innovative people to survive what they did. Haven’t had time to pull the photos together and write a post on it yet. Only a few more days here and then on to Belgrade. Made an appointment for a Hammam + Massage at Hotel Isa Begov for Monday. Don’t know if you’ve experienced a Hammam – they are so rejuvenating! Decided the “taxi thing” is not happening again and did research on Belgrade and made an appointment for a taxi to my apartment. There are so many things to remember and traveling solo it’s all on you… Sometimes I just get a little lazy and tired of always having to pay such close attention to everything :( but the alternative is being vulnerable especially in new countries.
Great description and photos! The sweets look so delicious!