The entire Overberg is an exquisite nature reserve and floral kingdom with richer fynbos than other areas around the Cape. I arrived in July – the heart of winter – but the weather was dry and warm. Now into August, we’re still waiting for winter and have only had a few significant storms. The reservoirs aren’t as dry and depleted as Cape Town’s, so Overberg’s drought isn’t quite as severe. I’m adjusting to fynbos pollen, sea air, and the all-encompassing Western Cape rogue wind which rattles all and rises and falls as it pleases!
Many buildings in Hermanus don’t have heating systems like we use in the US. Except during a few winter months, they don’t need them and interior heat comes from fireplaces and portable heaters. Yesterday, it was almost 80 degrees, and last night there was no need for a fire.
Cape Overberg Nature Reserves – Atlantic and Indian Oceans
Nature Reserves on my exploration list include nearby locations spread out along the coast of the Atlantic and Indian Oceans. The biggest decision is which direction to go – east toward Betty’s Bay or west to Gansbaai. Both directions delight the eye:
If you enjoy nature, the communities in these areas have much to offer and are ideal for a peaceful, active retirement. The area is very beautiful, and I’ve considered permanent relocation, but am not yet ready to commit. My renewable visa expires in 2020, and I have no idea if there will be more restrictions. Obtaining the first long-term visa was arduous.
Other than Hermanus, these are some areas of consideration. They offer interesting people, outstanding inexpensive restaurants, diverse outdoor activities, volunteer opportunities, hiking trails, and white-sand beaches:
Hermanus Cliff Trail, Beaches, and Whale Watching
This hiking blog – Walking the Cape – written by locals describes easy and challenging hikes. It would take months to complete them all! Yesterday I spent time hiking the Hermanus Cliff Path that begins at New Harbor and hugs the Atlantic coast to Grotto Beach and Klein River Estuary. If you hike the whole trail, it’s about 8 miles. The path isn’t difficult, and the coastal scenery is gorgeous – photos attached.
Now, I have several new “favorite” beaches to visit during warmer weather, including Voëlklip, Kwaaiwater, and Kammabaai. There are many small private coves and beaches along the Cliff Trail, but getting down to them is dicey. I stopped for a few minutes to ponder the sea and saw surfers climbing up from the beach – boards in hand – on an almost invisible path hidden by fynbos.
Watched a group of 7+ whales for over an hour near Dutchies Restaurant at beautiful Grotto Beach. The whales were having fun – no breaching but lots of spouting, pec slapping, and tail fluking. With binoculars, it was amazing watching them!!! Locals say whales can sense a crowd of spectators and sometimes show off for their audience. Like humans, you see more whales on clear sunny days during mid- morning or afternoon.
A woman from Hermanus told me about an experience she had at a small sheltered beach, when suddenly a mother whale and calf appeared near the shoreline. She said the calf looked about the size of an elephant and seemed to be getting a lesson from its mother on how close to get (or not get) to the beach. It was listening to its mother, and took a few practice runs coming close to the shore and then gracefully steering itself back out to sea. I love this place!
Fascinating post, and thanks for the addition of the map. Very helpful. The whales seem to have slip past us this year. Only saw a few at a fair distance.
Decided the map would give a better idea for the merging of two oceans – often go back and “tweak” posts. I’m here in Hermanus through October, Durban in November, Seychelles in December, and maybe Mozambique in January – lucky to find reasonably priced accommodation. Between now and the end of October must get down to one suitcase. Have four boxes removed from my Cape Town storage – no longer paying for that. Had to buy housewares for a meagerly-furnished apartment in Cape Town last year. The wind is absolutely violent today – squall on the way tomorrow.